My name is Michael "Mika"
Amantiad and I have
lived in Hawaii all my life on the North Shore of Oahu (Haleiwa), once
called "God's Country" and still is. We have the most beautiful waves in
the world. I've been surfing for 30 years from long boards (before it was
called "TANKERS") to short boards (called mini boards). I am currently
surfing long board, and still having fun. When I first started, I had my
share of Wipeouts. But now, it's all good. I like to surf waves 4 foot to
6 foot, walking the board on the smaller waves, and getting barreled on
the bigger waves.
I remember when I was about 14 years old, when Eddie Aikau was a lifeguard
at Waimea Bay. Me and my surfer buddy Walter Woods use to go out with him
and body surf the shore break and get in these "big" "big" "BIG" barrels
that you could fit a truck in!
I'd have to say my favorite spot would be Puena Point for long boarding,
and this place called "Corners," a secret spot (can't say where cause then
everyone would want to go there - sorry).
I remember when I was 15 years old working in the pineapple fields and my
grandfather's farm. I saved all my money and got my first brand spanking
new surf board made by Ryan Dotson, owner of Surf Line Hawaii and a pro
Surfer for Hawaii in the 60's.
Before I got my surfboard, I use to surf whatever board was given to me.
One day in the late 60's, I was challenged to surf this knee board. It was
about 4'11" long. I was at this beach called Ali'is (Haleiwa). The knee
board was fast and easy to maneuver on the waves. About a year later, mini
boards appeared and became the trend. My friend said, "Mika do you
remember surfing that knee board - that is just like a mini board now." I
sometime wonder if somebody saw what I was doing and got the idea and then
1 1/2 years later the mini board was born. It became a very "Big thing" (Hmmmm
- Oh Well!)
Surfing has been and still is a part of my life. It's really beautiful
being out surfing early in mornings and evenings. Surfing is a humbling
experience feeling the power and might of one of God's creations. Thank
you God! I like to write about more but I was asked to keep this short. I
have plenty of Surf stories - all good! Come and visit me on the North
Shore and we can "Wala'au" (talk story). I also paddle and surf outrigger
canoes, another one of my favorite past times. So until then, thank God
for everything and God bless.