Douglas "Dougie" Deal

My name is Douglas Shane Deal. I started surfing in the summer of 1960 in Florida. I surfed in competitions from 1963-1998 and still compete in some to this day. I came to Hawaii in !975, and have had so many great days on the North Shore of Oahu.
I surfed mostly every spot from V-land to Haleiwa. I have had so many memories of Sunset beach, Backdoor, Off the Wall, V-land. One of the best waves I surfed last winter was at Backdoor. It was an 8' - 10' Hawaiian style tube and long right handers. The best wave probably in my life was in Bali. It is Hard to say after 40+ years of surfing!
The most exciting surf session was when we took a wave runner outside to the west of Haleiwa - to a spot called "Hammers Heads", it's this wave that's way out in the ocean. I was riding a 6'4" and 16" wide wooden Dick Brewster tow-in Board. I was being pulled at 35 mph into a 15'-20' wave that is still a ocean swell. Then it hits the reef and this wave turns into a monster of a wave, you just try not to fall, their is a reason they call the spot "Hammer Heads"!
                -Aloha!

Contents on this site are stories, opinions, and thoughts by the writer only.