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The Inventor of the Curling Iron
Inventor of the Curling Iron
African-American Women Inventors of the Early 20th Century
Socially significant personal care items
In 1898, Ms. Lyda D. Newman patented the first hairbrush with synthetic
bristles. Soon thereafter, two other African-American inventors
revolutionized hair-care and created an industry. These women were Sarah
Breedlove McWilliams Walker, known as ""Madame C.J. Walker," and Marjorie
Joyner.
Madame Walker (1867-1919) was a St. Louis washerwoman turned entrepreneur,
who in 1905 invented a method to soften and smooth black women's hair using
hot combs, curlers, and pomades---instead of a hot flat-iron. To market the
system, Walker's "hair culturists" sold her products door to door, but also
made hair-treatment housecalls. "The Walker Way" spread throughout the
U.S.; but Walker's greatest coup came on a trip to Paris, when Josephine
Baker, perhaps the most popular singer of the '20s, adopted Walker's method
and started an international fad. Walker died (aged 52) a millionaire,
philanthropist, and employer of three thousand [this a year before women
got the vote!].
Marjorie Joyner (1896-??) began to work for Walker's company in Chicago in
the mid 1920s. Frustrated, because only a day after her treatment every
client "looked like an accident going someplace to happen," Joyner invented
the permanent wave machine (patent #1,693,515 - Nov. 27, 1928). This was a
dome-shaped device that applied electrical current to pressed and clamped
one-inch sections of hair, creating a hairdo that would last a considerable
time.
Joyner herself "never got a penny. . .but that's OK" from her invention,
but later became Director of Walker's nationwide chain of beauty schools,
and co-founded the United Beauty School Owners and Teachers Association
(1945). With their "Pay While You Learn" policy, these schools have
provided an accessible and profitable career for thousands of
African-Americans.
Others followed in Walker's and Joyner's footsteps, founding beauty schools
for blacks all over the U.S. . Jessie T. Pope of Detroit invented the
thermostatically controlled curling iron; patented it with help from
Eleanor Roosevelt (1946); and founded a company to manufacture it (1958).
Walker's and Joyner's ultimate purpose was to improve African-Americans'
appearance, confidence, and job prospects. It is true that all Beauty
Culture is somewhat artificial and arbitrary; but it is also a fact that
everyone then and now (especially employers) has certain expectations. As
Joyner put it, "a good personal appearance helps people get and hold jobs.
. . People need to make their own opportunities, and appearance is
important." Thus it is no exaggeration to say that these women's
inventiveness and entrepreneurship have provided significant social and
professional benefits to African-Americans. "Not for me, but for my race!"
were Madame Walker's last words.
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