Surfing started a long time ago in Hawaii.  The Hawaiians introduced surfing to the United States and Australia.  Surfing really started to get popular in the 1950’s, when inventor Robert Simmons made the first fiberglass surfboard.  The fiberglass surfboard was not as expensive as the wooden ones. Also, they were much lighter. Surfing became popular because of two surfers: George Freeth and Duke Kahanamoku. 

Duck diving allows the force of the wave to pass overhead so you can continue paddling toward the spot where you want to catch some waves.  Here’s how it is done:  Paddle hard toward the wave, when it’s close to you, shift your weight forward. Use your weight to sink the nose.  Push the tail down with one foot. As the wave passes over you, point the nose forward and then ease up to the surface. 

Tips - Stance. Maintaining a wide stance on your board will make it easier to balance your weight evenly.  That will help prevent you from being knocked off. Always keep an eye on the nose of your board, especially in critical situations. 

Fitness - You must be in great shape to surf or windsurf. Practice swimming and doing push-ups or other exercises that will keep you fit. Beginners should be able to: swim a short distance at top speed; swim a long distance at a slower, steady pace; remain under water for at least 20 seconds and have the strength to paddle the board through at least two sets of waves. 

One reason surfers enter contests is because of the money.  Winners can win anywhere from $100 to $150,000.