The
Holy Space
It
is impossible to tackle the phenomenon of Nestinarstvo and the
rituals in Strandzha Mountain without taking into consideration
the idea of the "Holy Space". It comprises and is
outlined by temple buildings, holy roads, springs and sections
as well as by the worshippers' movement in it.
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The
Holy Springs
The holy springs are in honor of the most revered saints, and
are visited on the patrons' days. The nestinars usually use different
paths to the spring and on the way back. The holy icon is always
carried in the lead of the procession in both directions. The
musicians walk behind or in front of it. The whole ritual at the
spring is performed by the saint's "visiya" (priest).
He is usually from an old priestly clan that takes care of the
spring. There, at the spring, the animal offerings are given.
They are also accompanied by the so-called "bloodless offerings".
No deviations from the path, to the spring and back, are permitted;
otherwise they will be punished by the patron saint. On appointed
days before the holiday the "visiya" and some chosen
worshippers - in accordance with the type of ritual - go and clear
the way and the spring.
The springs play an important role in the culture of the local
people. With the apparition of a saint the worshippers find springs
("ayasmas") in their dreams, and point out the sacred
place which will serve for offerings and other ritual acts (e.g
serving of ritual bread, "horo" dances, etc.). The patron
of the holy spring is usually one of the revered saints, who gave
directions for the finding of the spring in the dream. The popular
explanation of the respect for the spring is that people believe
in the healing effects of its water. Sometimes the worshippers
relate the place with the saint's life or death. That motive is
an attempt for settling the differences with the church; for it
does not allow the construction of altars and sanctifying of places
discovered in dreams, and therefore orders their destruction.
A number of field researches registered beliefs that the collected
water in megalithic altars, is the so-called "ayasma"
i.e holy, healing water. The people living in Strandzha Mountain
deeply believe in the magic of the spring water and the rock from
which it spurts. Some even consider that drinking the water and
eating tiny shingles from those places can help a woman conceive.
Almost all of the springs are near a rock on which people place
burning candles. The springs in honor of St. Marina are usually
located in caves.
The ritual cleaning of the springs is not only a symbol of purification
but also of a new birth. This conclusion is confirmed once more
by the act of changing the garment of those who have come to be
healed at the spring. The ill person's old clothes (or some items)
are hung on the branches of a tree. They symbolize the illness.
The dressing and the running away from the spring (the ill person
must not turn back) show the fear of the place, which is associated
as "an entrance" to the afterlife world. The recorded
accounts of such healing rituals are not only of St.St. Constantine
and Helena's springs, but also of other ones, bearing the names
of the rest patron saints.
The mentioned rites are of truly pagan character but they find
their equivalents in Christian Religion. The purging with water
is a baptism act. The first Christians were baptized with running
or sprinkled water. In other words, the adoption of a new religion
meant new birth.
The ancient concept of the healing of eye and skin diseases should
be mentioned in the context of the above details and conclusions.
Blindness is a synonym of death; and the restoration/restoring
of eyesight is an equivalent of the enlightenment after baptism,
a symbol of new birth. Skin diseases mean impairment of the human
nature, sacred impurity, and death. Their curing is a symbol of
a new life and a return to the community
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The
Path
The walk to each of the springs (located in an imaginary ideal
circle) gradually consecrates the spiritual territory of the settlement.
Thus a saint protection of the whole village and its lands is
provided. The ritual of the consecration of the path (in both
directions) is performed each year on strictly appointed days
from the nestinar calendar.
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E'pitrope - Uncle Kiro (āson-in-law of the
legendary nestinar - Granny Zlata), followed by the icon carriers,
leaves the "ayasma" of St.Helena,
Bulgari
Village
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The idea of the consecration of the space is supported by some
records, which give an account of the proceedings in case two
processions - each on its way to a holy spring - cross their paths.
Then the icons should "fight" in order to prove which
of the saints is stronger.
The icons are usually carried by lads who bear the name "Constantine",
and lasses whose name is "Helena"; followed by other
youths. They dance all the way to the spring. The procession movement
is very quick. The participants are nearly running to the holy
spring and on the way back. Observations show that the lasses
and the women in a procession walk barefoot. The movement to the
border of the organized holy space and back, from its center to
its periphery and back to the nestinar "konak" or the
church (the home of the icons), is permeated by faith. It is expressed
in the concept that the walking to the marked beginning of chaos
(equivalent of death) and the successful returning from it is
due to the saint patron's help. The movement of the nestinar community
(the so-called "thiasus") is performed in a complex
order, because of the developed internal hierarchy structure of
priests, baptized, laymen, atheists, and recently spectators.
Each of the groups takes different positions in the space and
the ritual, consequently - in the procession.
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A plank-bed ("odarche" ) in the vicinity
of the "ayasma"of St.Helena,Bulgari Village
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The
"Odarcheta"
A wooden construction is always present in the vicinity of the holy
springs. It is a plank-bed framework called "odarche".
It serves the purposes of a shelf on which the icons of patron saints
are placed.
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A beam platform, supported by four sculptured wooden columns that
mark the apexes of a square, faces the four cardinal points. The
platform is always suspended above the spring when the terrain
is favorable for that.
The platform is enclosed with a parapet. The access to it (provided
by no/one/two steps) always faces North. The southern part is
shaped as an iconostasis with drilled holes in which the handles
of the icons are pushed. "Saints should stand upright and
watch." i.e. they have to "participate" in the
rituals. This is a rule well remembered and strictly kept by the
oldest inhabitants. The ritual breads and gifts are placed around
the icons on the platform. The latter is decorated with small
metal crosses serving for the sticking of the lit candles. Candles
are stuck to the whole wooden construction. The parapet is used
for hanging gifts - pieces of cloth, shirts. The ill people who
come to the spring put their new garment (or some items of it)
on it as well.
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The
"Konak"
The word is of Turkish origin and means "home" and the
like. The "konaks" are in fact the temple buildings
of the nestinars. They are completely independent and separated
from the church. Their usual location is the center of the village.
Some specialists define them as "private churches".
All processions begin and finish at the "konak".
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The "konak" of St.Elias in the village
of Bulgari
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The
Fireplace
It has its special importance and is the center of the sanctuary.
The old nestinar practice requires fires to be stacked in the
corner facing east/southeast (i.e. the strong cardinal point of
God - the Sun). A corner is a metaphor of a new beginning and
stability. The same fact can also be interpreted as an attempt
for reconciliation with the official church. The blazing embers
in the hearth of the chapel are an equivalent of the winter Sun.
The three-day winter holidays (St.Athanasius' Day and St.Eutimius'
Day) coincide with the gradual lengthening of daylight. The hearth
serves for preparing the ritual food. During those three days
no meat should be consumed. On 21st of May the hearth is used
again, but this time for boiling the meat, which will be served
at the common holiday dinner. The meat is that of the offered
animal, usually a bull or a ram.
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The
Iconostasis
The icons are placed on it. In the past the "konak"
used to be in the chief nestinar priestess's home. The icons were
kept there throughout the whole year. Thus they "participate"
in all rituals; "receive" gifts and "take rest",
after "their walking" to the holy spring and the people's
homes. From the iconostasis the icons "go" to the "konak"
in order to "dance" in the fire. In fact, they are carried
by the lads and lasses on the way to the sanctuary; and by the
nestinars when they perform their dances. It was the chief female
nestinar (later the "vikilin" = the chief priest) who
appointed the homes for the icons. That was done with the purpose
to let the icons rest. To shelter them, was the greatest honor
for the hosts.
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Icons of St.St.Constantine and Helena,nestinar
kerchiefs and a "shirt" in T.Gaidadzis's "konak"
,
Langada (Greece)
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