How to cut your hair

THIS GUIDE WILL HELP YOU FIND YOUR BEST CUT, AND STYLE IT TO PERFECTION

FIRST THINGS FIRST:

For starters, do an at-home evaluation. After your next shampoo, look at the crown of your hair with the aid of mirrors. You’ll see a circular pattern that’s the way your hair grows. Once you’re aware of its natural movement, you can choose a style that makes the most of it. A snip of the scissors in the right place can perk up limp hair, tame unruly curls or coax thick hair into shape.

LIMP, FINE HAIR has special problems. To cope with its lack of body and movement:

Have hair cut in the direction of growth;
Consider a fringe – limp hair tends to lie flattest around the face. Fringes also help disguise thinness on top, which is noticeable with fine hair. Fringes should be cut well into the temples and then graduated into the cheekbones;
Keep in mind that over-conditioning weighs hair down;
Use mousse or gel at the roots when hair is nearly dry to boost its body. Hair spray can be helpful for fine, limp hair, but use it just to stiffen hair slightly. Over spraying can leave hair so stiff, it will have no movement at all.

THICK, COARSE HAIR should not be cut with a razor or thinning shears; these only take the bulk out temporarily. As soon as the hair starts to grow again, it loses shape and becomes unruly. Probably the best option for thick hair is an all-one-length blunt cut or a layered style, cut with scissors. Shorter hair should be blunted so it has better form.

Finger-comb hair into shape.

CURLY HAIR, can be a blessing, but it is not as forgiving as straight hair during the growing out period and, if not cut well, can get a wild look.

Curly hair should always be layered.
If curls are unruly, apply hair spray to palms and smooth over hair’s surface.
If hair is long or very curly, you can ‘straighten it’ with a large round or paddle brush, some straightening balm and a blower.

THE BEST LENGTH:

Long, short or in-between – what’s the most flattering length?

LONG HAIR can be wonderful – but it can also look flat. Layer long hair on top and keep the rest all one length. Short layers around the face ‘blend in’ to give the illusion of a one-length style, but add movement and volume. The shorter top layers can be pulled up and scrunched for easy styling.
SHORT HAIR is a great way to emphasize eyes and other facial features. Wear short hair cropped at the back with longer, full layers on top, all cut in the direction of hair growth. To style, scrunch the top with both hands while hair is drying. Keep finger-combing against the natural wave to get more body at the roots. “Pushing” against the direction of growth adds fullness and lift.

SALONSPEAK:

Make sure you and your hairstylist speak the same language. Terms that you should know: -

Layering: creates ‘tiers’ of hair around the shape of the head to add texture and curves. It’s a good alternative to perming.
Texturizing : thins lower portion of hair (or just the very ends) almost strand by strand for a softer, lighter look with lots of movement.
Undercutting or pointing : makes hair livelier and fuller by cutting underneath layers shorter than top ones. This creates a ‘support’ structure for hair, giving the illusion of body.

TO CHECK YOUR CUT:

A good cut should pass five tests – and if your hairstylist is doing his/her job, your hair should be tested as it is cut. You can do the same at home on just-washed hair.

Layering should be even at sides and back.
Grasp two strands of side hair closest to the face and pull towards the chin. They should be even.
Part hair from either side and down the middle. There should be no rogue strands.
Grasp hair behind each ear and scrunch. You should feel the same ‘bulk’.
When dried, hair should fall into place. If your cut doesn’t measure up, go back to the salon. Most styling mistakes can be corrected.

IF YOUR HAIR’S NOT RIGHT………IT’S THE CUT!

Your haircut should suit not only your hair but also your lifestyle. Sure, professional stylists can make any sort of hair look fabulous, but unless they’re going to be at your beck and call every day, you need a cut that you can manage on your own, one that’s suitable to your hair’s texture and length. Below, suggestions to help you get the cut you need, and tips on how to style it to best advantage.

LONG HAIR RULES

If your hair is straight and sleek, and you want to maintain that look, opt for a one-length cut. With no layers to break the surface, your hair will look its glossy best. And styling is a breeze: Distribute an antifrizz balm throughout wet hair to add shine, then blow-dry small sections at a time, using a large round brush to straighten away any minor kinks. For an ultra-sleek look, once hair is completely dry, run a hair straightener through small sections all around the head. For the ultimate in luster, rub a few drops of shine-enhancing serum through hair.

Thicker hair will gain bounce and lose heft with long layers that start at the jaw and continue through to the ends. Likewise, long layers can help keep curly hair in control. To style, comb a straightening balm or a silicone based shine enhancer through wet hair and as with the one-length cut, blow-dry small sections at a time using a large round brush. Once hair is dry, you can add lift and maximise movement by setting hair on large Velcro rollers. To help lock in the set, direct the nozzle of your blow-dryer onto the curler, and then blast with warm air for 30 seconds, followed by cool air for one minute. Graduated layers, from the collarbone to the last several inches of hair, can build bounce into super-straight hair and minimize frizzies. Styling begins by combing mousse through wet hair, then again blow-drying. This time, though, you’ll concentrate on the roots first, waiting until they’re completely dry before continuing with the remainder of your hair. This ensures that the crown area stays smooth.

MID-LENGTH MAGIC

Keep curls bouncy, frizz-free, and manageable with cheekbone – skimming layers throughout the front and with longer layers added to the last inch or so of hair in the back. A curl-enhancing gel applied while hair is damp will further help maintain control, as will blow-drying with a diffuser attachment. Once hair is dry, define the curls around your face by wrapping two-inch sections around a curling iron for 30 seconds. To keep curls in shape all day, after hair has cooled, dab pomade onto your fingertips, and then apply to the curls.

If your hair is straight, you’ll flip over having the bottom few inches of your hair razor-cut to curl upward. To style, comb gel through towel-dried hair and blow dry using a large round brush to direct hair away from the face and to curl the ends upward.

To add texture and lift to fine hair, have short layers razor-cut throughout the top sections of hair while leaving the underlying sections longer to support the top. Because of the short layers, styling takes virtually no time: After combing a firm hold gel throughout damp hair, use a vent brush while blow-drying to lift hair at the roots. Once the roots are dry, turn the nozzle to the rest of your hair, using a round brush to smooth the layers or flip the ends, whichever you fancy.

There’s a reason the softly layered bob has never gone out of style – it works for hair of all textures and offers endless styling options. Here’s one of the easiest: Comb mousse through towel-dried hair, then for extra volume, spritz texturizer at the roots. To build in still more body, bend over and blow-dry hair upside down. To finish, flip hair over and use a big round brush to lift hair straight up as you direct heat onto the roots.

SHORT HAIR SUGGESTIONS

A wedged bob can work wonders in managing curls, but with its short top layers, longer under layers, and blunt cut bangs, it’s equally flattering for straight hair. For a sleek wedge, apply an antifrizz balm to damp hair, then blow-dry while using a large round brush to straighten and smooth. For an extra-sleek look, finish with a straightening iron.

Another style that works regardless of hair’s natural tendencies is the short clip – top layers that are razor-cut about four inches long, with shorter layers that add texture and lift by tapering down to the nape and sides. To enhance the texture further, apply a volumizing mousse to damp hair, then blow-dry while wrapping two-inch-wide sections of hair around a small round brush. Once hair is dry, wrap small sections around a curling iron for 30-60 seconds at a time. When hair is cool, don’t brush. Instead, smooth a dab of pomade through hair to define the waves.

Similar to the short clip, the short chop features two – three inch layers throughout the crown that get slightly shorter as they taper to the nape – a fabulous way to add body to baby-fine hair. You can let it air-dry into place, or for extra oomph, work a lightweight gel through hair while it’s damp, then blow-dry, using a small round brush to lift layers at the crown. Finish by working a bit of pomade through hair to separate and differentiate the layers.

The shortest of the short cuts, the crop is the ultimate in providing manageability to every type of hair. The style is defined by fringy two-to three-inch layers that taper very close to the nape. Again, this is an ideal candidate for air-drying – simply smooth or ruffle the layers, depending on your mood, and go! But it can also be blow-dried for a more polished look. Smooth mousse through damp hair, then blow-dry, using your fingers to direct hair into place. Brush the bangs to one side, then apply a dab of pomade to your fingertips and direct the sidepieces on and around your face.