THIS GUIDE WILL HELP YOU FIND YOUR BEST CUT, AND STYLE IT TO PERFECTION
FIRST THINGS FIRST:
For starters, do an
at-home evaluation. After your next
shampoo, look at the crown of your hair with the aid of mirrors.
You’ll see a circular pattern that’s the way your hair grows.
Once you’re aware of its natural movement, you can choose a style that
makes the most of it. A snip of the
scissors in the right place can perk up limp hair, tame unruly curls or coax
thick hair into shape.
LIMP, FINE HAIR has
special problems. To cope with its lack of body and movement:
THICK, COARSE HAIR should
not be cut with a razor or thinning shears; these only take the bulk out
temporarily. As soon as the hair
starts to grow again, it loses shape and becomes unruly.
Probably the best option for thick hair is an all-one-length blunt cut or
a layered style, cut with scissors. Shorter
hair should be blunted so it has better form.
CURLY HAIR, can be a
blessing, but it is not as forgiving as straight hair during the growing out
period and, if not cut well, can get a wild look.
THE BEST LENGTH:
Make sure you and your
hairstylist speak the same language. Terms
that you should know: -
Layering: creates ‘tiers’ of hair around the shape of the head to
add texture and curves. It’s
a good alternative to perming.
Texturizing : thins lower portion of hair (or just the very ends)
almost strand by strand for a softer, lighter look with lots of movement.
Undercutting or pointing : makes hair livelier and fuller by cutting
underneath layers shorter than top ones.
This creates a ‘support’ structure for hair, giving the illusion
TO CHECK YOUR CUT:
A good cut should pass
five tests – and if your hairstylist is doing his/her job, your hair should be
tested as it is cut. You can do the
same at home on just-washed hair.
Layering should be
even at sides and back.
Grasp two strands of
side hair closest to the face and pull towards the chin.
They should be even.
Part hair from either
side and down the middle. There
should be no rogue strands.
Grasp hair behind each
ear and scrunch. You should
feel the same ‘bulk’.
When dried, hair
should fall into place. If your
cut doesn’t measure up, go back to the salon.
Most styling mistakes can be corrected.
HAIR’S NOT RIGHT………IT’S THE CUT!
Your haircut should
suit not only your hair but also your lifestyle.
Sure, professional stylists can make any sort of hair look fabulous, but
unless they’re going to be at your beck and call every day, you need a cut
that you can manage on your own, one that’s suitable to your hair’s texture
and length. Below, suggestions to
help you get the cut you need, and tips on how to style it to best advantage.
LONG HAIR RULES
If your hair is straight
and sleek, and you want to maintain that look, opt for a one-length cut.
With no layers to break the surface, your hair will look its glossy best.
And styling is a breeze: Distribute an antifrizz balm throughout wet hair
to add shine, then blow-dry small sections at a time, using a large round brush
to straighten away any minor kinks. For an ultra-sleek look, once hair is
completely dry, run a hair straightener through small sections all around the
head. For the ultimate in luster, rub a few drops of shine-enhancing serum
Thicker hair will gain
bounce and lose heft with long layers that start at the jaw and continue through
to the ends. Likewise, long layers can help keep curly hair in control. To
style, comb a straightening balm or a silicone based shine enhancer through wet
hair and as with the one-length cut, blow-dry small sections at a time using a
large round brush. Once hair is dry, you can add lift and maximise movement by
setting hair on large Velcro rollers. To help lock in the set, direct the nozzle
of your blow-dryer onto the curler, and then blast with warm air for 30 seconds,
followed by cool air for one minute. Graduated layers, from the collarbone to
the last several inches of hair, can build bounce into super-straight hair and
minimize frizzies. Styling begins by combing mousse through wet hair, then again
blow-drying. This time, though, you’ll concentrate on the roots first, waiting
until they’re completely dry before continuing with the remainder of your
hair. This ensures that the crown area stays smooth.
Keep curls bouncy,
frizz-free, and manageable with cheekbone – skimming layers throughout the
front and with longer layers added to the last inch or so of hair in the back.
A curl-enhancing gel applied while hair is damp will further help
maintain control, as will blow-drying with a diffuser attachment.
Once hair is dry, define the curls around your face by wrapping two-inch
sections around a curling iron for 30 seconds.
To keep curls in shape all day, after hair has cooled, dab pomade onto
your fingertips, and then apply to the curls.
If your hair is straight,
you’ll flip over having the bottom few inches of your hair razor-cut to curl
upward. To style, comb gel through
towel-dried hair and blow dry using a large round brush to direct hair away from
the face and to curl the ends upward.
To add texture and lift to
fine hair, have short layers razor-cut throughout the top sections of hair while
leaving the underlying sections longer to support the top.
Because of the short layers, styling takes virtually no time: After
combing a firm hold gel throughout damp hair, use a vent brush while blow-drying
to lift hair at the roots. Once the
roots are dry, turn the nozzle to the rest of your hair, using a round brush to
smooth the layers or flip the ends, whichever you fancy.
There’s a reason the
softly layered bob has never gone out of style – it works for hair of all
textures and offers endless styling options.
Here’s one of the easiest: Comb
mousse through towel-dried hair, then for extra volume, spritz texturizer at the
roots. To build in still more body,
bend over and blow-dry hair upside down. To
finish, flip hair over and use a big round brush to lift hair straight up as you
direct heat onto the roots.
SHORT HAIR SUGGESTIONS
A wedged bob can work
wonders in managing curls, but with its short top layers, longer under layers,
and blunt cut bangs, it’s equally flattering for straight hair. For a sleek
wedge, apply an antifrizz balm to damp hair, then blow-dry while using a large
round brush to straighten and smooth. For
an extra-sleek look, finish with a straightening iron.
Another style that works
regardless of hair’s natural tendencies is the short clip – top layers that
are razor-cut about four inches long, with shorter layers that add texture and
lift by tapering down to the nape and sides.
To enhance the texture further, apply a volumizing mousse to damp hair,
then blow-dry while wrapping two-inch-wide sections of hair around a small round
brush. Once hair is dry, wrap small
sections around a curling iron for 30-60 seconds at a time.
When hair is cool, don’t brush. Instead,
smooth a dab of pomade through hair to define the waves.
Similar to the short clip,
the short chop features two – three inch layers throughout the crown that get
slightly shorter as they taper to the nape – a fabulous way to add body to
baby-fine hair. You can let it
air-dry into place, or for extra oomph, work a lightweight gel through hair
while it’s damp, then blow-dry, using a small round brush to lift layers at
the crown. Finish by working a bit
of pomade through hair to separate and differentiate the layers.
The shortest of the short
cuts, the crop is the ultimate in providing manageability to every type of hair.
The style is defined by fringy two-to three-inch layers that taper very
close to the nape. Again, this is
an ideal candidate for air-drying – simply smooth or ruffle the layers,
depending on your mood, and go! But it can also be blow-dried for a more
polished look. Smooth mousse
through damp hair, then blow-dry, using your fingers to direct hair into place.
Brush the bangs to one side, then apply a dab of pomade to your
fingertips and direct the sidepieces on and around your face.
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