North-east of Garni, higher up the gorge
of the Azat river, there is a magnificent monument of medieval Armenian architecture-Geghart
monastery. The specific character of this monument reflects, no doubt, the peculiarities
of the austere and majestic scenery around it. The picturesque gorge of Gegharta-dzor
with its high and precipitous cliffs is extremely winding, and the monastery
opens to view unexpectedly behind a turn of a steep path leading to it. In the
1950s a road sign was put up near this turn-a lioness on a high pedestal, with
its head turned as if showing the way. Its figure is stylistically connected
with the decoration of the monastery. The exact date of Geghart's foundation
is unknown. In one of the caves of Gegharta-dzor there still gushes a spring
which was believed to be a sacred one in heathen times. Following a tradition,
it continued to be worshipped even after Christianity had spread in Armenia.
As a result, a monastery called Ayrivank, or a "cave monastery", was
founded there at the beginning of the fourth century. The present name can de
traced back to the 13th century when, as a legend says, the legendary spear-geghart-was
brought there. Nothing has remained of the structures of Ayrivank. According
to Armenian historians of the IV, VIII and X centuries the monastery comprised,
apart from religious buildings, well-appointed residential and service installations.
Ayrivank suffered greatly in 923 from Nasr, a vice-regent of an Arabian calif
in Armenia, who plundered its valuable property, including unique manuscripts,
and burned down the magnificent structures of the monastery. Earthquakes also
did it no small damage. The existing ensemble dates back to the XII-XIII centuries,
the time of the flourishing of national culture, especially architecture. Under
the princes of Zakharia and Ivane the chapel of Gregory the Enlightener - the
most ancient structure of the monastery - its main temple and its vestry, as
well as the first cave church were built. In the second half of the XIII century
the monastery was bought by princes Proshian. Over a short period they built
the cave structures which brought Geghart well-merited fame - the second cave
church, the family sepulchre of zhamatun Papak and Ruzukan, a hall for gatherings
and studies (collapsed in the middle of the XX century) and numerous cells.
In one of the cave cells there lived, in the XIII century, Mkhitar Airivanetsi,
the well-known Armenian historian. The one-and two-storey residential and service
structures, situated on the perimeter of the monastery's yard, were repeatedly
reconstructed, sometimes from their foundations as it happened in the XVII century
and in 1968-
1971.The
chapel of Gregory the Enlightener, built before 1177, stands high above the
road, a hundred meters away from the entrance to the monastery. It is partly
hewed in massive solid rock; its composition was, in all probability, largely
influenced by the shape of the cave which existed there. The chapel, rectangular
in the plan and having a horseshoe-shaped apse, is adjoined, from the east and
from the northeast, by passages and annexes hewed at various levels and even
one on top of another. Traces of plaster with remnants of dark frescoes show
that there were murals inside the chapel. Khatchkars with various ornaments,
inserted into the exterior walls and hewn on the adjacent rock surfaces, enliven
the outward appearance of the chapel.The main monuments of Geghart take up the
middle of the monastery yard surrounded with walls and towers on three sides
and blocked by a steep cliff on the fourth one. This gives the ensemble a unique
appearance. Erected over a short period, the monuments make up a single architectural
and artistic whole in which ground structures are compositionally and stylistically
connected with the premises hewn in rock. Built in 1215, the main temple (katoghike)
belongs, in its spatial arrangement and layout, to a type of structure spread
in Armenia in the X-XIV centuries - rectangular in the plan, on the outside,
and cross-winged domed interior with two-storey annexes in the corners of the
central crossing. The architectural forms of the building are well-proportioned
and harmonious. The pilasters and half-columns, crowned with pointed arches
and spherical pendentives, are fortunately coordinated with the cupola resting
on a high drum. The stairs leading to the western annexes of the first floor
are graceful, even minus the bottom steps. The altar apse is horseshoe-shaped,
and its bottom is decorated with a light arcature which seems to echo the squat
arcature of the front wall of the altar dais. The transition from the semi-dark
bottom to the light-filled under-cupola space is extremely expressive. The outward
appearance of the temple is organically coordinated with its interior. The gentle
divisions of the lower bulk are crowned with a graceful cupola which emphasizes
the predomination of the vertical line in the structure's composition. It is
also reflected in the arrangement of the main decorative elements of the facades,
especially of the southern one. The graceful arcature, engirding the cupola,
and the slot-like windows are coordinated with the triangular niches of the
facades. The sculptural decoration of the temple is most interesting. The decorative
elements are fortunately combined with the three-dimensional representation
of the animals. The portals, the trompe tops of the facade niches, the cornices
and the cupola are decorated not only with various floras and geometrical patterns,
but also with the pictures of household articles, birds and animals. The sculptural
group of the southern facade - a lion attacking an ox, a symbol of the prince's
power - is executed in a rather realistic manner. The portal of the same facade,
decorated with a fine ornamental carving, is of extraordinary interest. The
excellently made tympan, original in its composition, is decorated with representation
of trees with pomegranates hanging from their branches, and of leaves intertwining
with grapes. The pictures of doves - a favorite detail of the portals of Armenia's
monumental XIII century buildings - are placed between the arch and the outside
frame; the doves' heads are turned to the axis of the portal. The arched top
of the arcature of the cupola's drum is no less attractive. The thoroughly detailed
relief's, cut in its spandrels and tympanums and showing birds, human masks,
animals heads, various rosettes and jars, form, together with the arches, an
unusual sculptural frieze. In the composition and elements of decoration, this
frieze and a girdle of an intricate geometrical ornament above it are close
to a similar decoration of the cupola of Gregory Church of Tigran Onents's family
in Ani built in the selfsame year of 1215. This suggests that both structures
were created by the same architect. West of the main temple there is a rock-attached
vestry built between 1215 and 1225. Its squat shape with plane, undecorated
and undivided walls sets off the subtle gracefulness of the temple. The western
portal differs from other portals of those times by vary-shaped door bands,
arranged in perspective-lancet arched and stepped-decorated with a fine floral
pattern. The ornamentation of the tympanum consists of large flowers with petals
of various shapes in the interlaced branches and oblong leaves. The vestry interior
is of the square-plan, four-pillar centric type. Thanks to the considerable
height of the premise, the slenderness of the columns, their remoteness from
the perimetric walls, the lancet shape the bearing arches and the skillfully
thought-out lighting, the interior gives the impression of unusual spaciousness,
lightness and gracefulness. The architect gave much attention to ceiling structure.
The ceiling is divided into nine sections filled with roofing's different in
their shape and decoration. The central section, made as a stalactite tent,
is the most eye-appealing of all. Composed of alternating standard brackets
and small vaults, decorated with rich foil, the tent has a light opening at
the top. The closed vault of the middle eastern section is decorated with millings
converging upon a tremendous drooping stone with stalactites carved on it. Of
the greatest interest is the flat ceiling of the middle southern section made
of large slabs resting on a complex cornice. It is made up of the usual profiled
brace and pointed trefoil brackets similar to the brackets of the central section.
Therefore the surface of the flat part of the ceiling is wavy and consists of
consecutive halves of octagons corresponding to the ornament of stars cut on
the slabs and emphasized by bright painting. The capitals of columns and pilasters
are also ornamented with stalactites varying in shape, and the arches of the
central sections by carvings in the shape of rectangular and triangular jags.
This imparts integrity to the decorative carving of the vestry interior. The
architectural forms and the decoration of Geghart's rock premises show that
Armenian builders could nod only create superb works of architecture out of
stone, but also hew them in solid rock. The first cave rock, Avazan (basin),
situated north-west of the vestry, is hewn in place of an ancient cave with
a spring in the forties of the XIII century by architect Galdzag. His name is
inscribed at the base of the tent decorated with relief's showing pomegranates.
The main rectangular space of the church is crowned with a tent and complicated
with an altar apse and two deep niches, which gave the interior an incomplete
cross-cupola shape. Two pairs of intersecting pointed arches, forming the base
of the tent, rest on the half-columns of the walls. Just as in the vestry, the
inner surface of the tent is hewn in the graceful shape of stalactites which
also decorate the capitals of the half-columns and the conch of the altar apse.
Probably, the large niches of the northern and western walls were given trefoil
heads in accordance with the contours of the stalactites. The decoration of
the southern wall is most interesting compositionally. Carved on it are small
triple arches with conchs of various shapes, connected at the top and at the
bottom by a complicated and finely carved floral ornament. The Proshian's sepulchre
and the second cave church of Astvatsasin situated east of Avazan, were hewn
in 1283, presumably by Galdzag, too. The former consists of two sections - the
big one, which served as a vestry, and the small one, connected with it by two
archways; in its floor there are burial vaults. In their proportions both sections
are rather low, which is emphasized by a heavy column, the segmental shape of
archways and a low through vault with a light opening at the top. All this is
meant to convey the purpose of this premise as a burial place and as a passageway
to the church which was probably a memorial one. The poor lighting made for
the sharp profiling of the relieves that decorate the walls. Of interest is
a rather primitive high relief on the northern wall, above the archways. In
the centre, there is the head of a lion with a chain in its jaws; the chain
is wound around the necks of two lions with their heads turned to the onlooker.
Instead of the tail tufts there are heads of upward looking dragons - symbolic
images going all the way back to heathen times. Between the lions and below
the chain there is an eagle with half-spread wings and a lamb in its claws.
This is presumably the coat-of-arms of the Princes Proshian. The relieves of
the eastern wall are no less picturesque. The entrances to a small chapel and
to Astvatsasin church have rectangular platbands connected by two relief crosses.
The lower one is framed, and the upper one, with its horizontal arms lying on
the platbands, is surrounded with rosettes of a geometrical pattern, the same
as cut on the facets of the trough vault of the interior. Cut on the portals
of the chapel are sirins (fantastic harpy-like birds with women's crowned heads)
and on the church walls there appear human figures with their elbows bent, wearing
long attires and having nimbuses around their heads. These are probably members
of the princely family who had these structures built. The church of Astvatsasin
is a cross-winged domed one, with three small annexes adjacent to it. The small
columns in the corners of the mid-cross section are crowned with arches and
spherical pendentives. Higher up there is a round drum of the cupola with a
hemisphere of the light opening cut at the top. The inside of the drum is decorated
with an arcature with twin columns and blank windows between them, which makes
this part akin to the exterior decoration of the main temples cupola.
The arcatures of the altar apses of these structures also have much in common.
Apart from stalactites in the shape of trefoils and quatrefoils, the decoration
of Astvatsasin church features ornaments of rosettes and various geometrical
figures; the front wall of the altar dais is decorated with a pattern of squares
and diamonds. A realistic representation of a goat at the butt of the altar
stair catches the eye. Men's figures on a khatchkar left of the altar apse also
merit attention. This is apparently a scene taken from real life. In our opinion,
the man with a staff in his right hand and in the same attitude as that of the
figures on the portal is Prince Proshian, a founder of the church. Another figure,
holding a spear in the left hand , point down, and blowing an uplifted horn,
is depicted almost in profile. The zhamatun of Papak and Ruzukana was hewn in
1288 in the second tier, north of the Proshians' burial-vault. One can get there
by a steep outer flight of stairs and a narrow corridor cut through solid rock.
On the southern side of the corridor numerous crosses are cut. The zhamatun
is a centric four-pillar structure. The columns hewn in solid rock support rather
low semicircular arches fitted into trapeziform frames which, forming a square
in the plan, serve as a foundation for the spherical cupola above them with
a light opening in its zenith. More than twenty premises, varying in shape and
size, were hewed, at different levels, in solid rock massifs which surrounded
the main cave structures and limited the western side of the monastery grounds.
Those situated in the western part of the complex are intended for service purposes,
and the rest are small rectangular chapels with a semicircular apse and an altar.
There are twin and triple chapels with one entrance, some of the entrances ornamented
with carvings. Numerous khatchkars cut on rock surface and on the walls of the
structures or put up on the territory of Geghart in memory of a deceased or
in commemoration of someones donation to the monastery are richly ornamented
with geometrical or floral motives. The composition of some khatchkars
decoration is unique. The arrangement of the khatchkars emphasizes certain points
of the ensemble. No works of applied art have survived in Geghart, the only
exception being the legendary spear, "geghart" a shaft with
a diamond-shaped plate attached to its end; a Greek cross with flared ends is
cut through the plate. In 1687, a special case was made for it, now kept in
the museum of Echmiadzin monastery. This gilded silver case is an ordinary handicraft
article of the XVII century Armenia.