Climbing Iliniza Sur via the Normal Route: From the refugio follow the caiirns up to the left until you reach the base of the north face. Traverse the glacier heading west (right) to the snow ramp below the rockband (if it exist, otherwise ascend the rocks much lower). From here the route more or less corkscrews to the right, traversing the mountain. Eventually you will need to head left up the steep (45-50 degree) slope to the summit. Plan on 3-5 hours from the refugio to the summit.
Getting There:
Take any bus heading south on the Pan American Highway.
About 40km south of Quito and just
south of the town of Machachi you will
see a green sign on the right hand
side of the highway for the "Ilinizas." Have the
driver let you off here. Head down
the cobbled road and try to catch a ride on
the local bus heading to El Chaupi
or hitch-hike. In the town of El Chaupi turn
right at the plaza and follow the
cobbled road for about 2-3km until you see a
left hand turn. You should see a
dilapidated sign for a hacienda at this left hand
turn. Just after big white cross
which is on the right. Continue to follow this
road. You will come upon a shrine
for the Mary -- most hired
camionetas will drop you off here.
You can count on about a 2-3 hour hike
from the to the refugio (Nuevos
Horizontes') at 4,700 meters. The
refugio has room for about 15-20
people and has cooking facilities.
Additional Routes:
Northeast Ridge, Celso Zuquillo, South Ridge, Southwest
face.