Illiniza Sur 5263 Meters



    Direct Route: Once you reach the flat area above the refugio you will be staring at the rather steep north face of    IIliniza Sur. This route can be extremely difficult depending on recent snowfall.Parts of this climb approach 70 - 80 degrees. Exit the ramp to the left and cross a crevassed area. Above the rockband climb right to a ridge and            then head left to the Ambato Peak. Then head for the summit. This climb can range from 6-8 hours depending on conditions.

    Climbing Iliniza Sur via the Normal Route: From the refugio follow the caiirns up to the left until you reach the base of the north face. Traverse the glacier heading west (right) to the snow ramp below the rockband (if it exist, otherwise ascend the rocks much lower). From here the route more or less corkscrews to the right, traversing the  mountain. Eventually you will need to head left up the steep (45-50 degree) slope to the summit. Plan on 3-5 hours from the refugio to the summit.

     Getting There: Take any bus heading south on the Pan American Highway.
 About 40km south of Quito and just south of the town of Machachi you will
 see a green sign on the right hand side of the highway for the "Ilinizas." Have the
 driver let you off here. Head down the cobbled road and try to catch a ride on
 the local bus heading to El Chaupi or hitch-hike. In the town of El Chaupi turn
 right at the plaza and follow the cobbled road for about 2-3km until you see a
 left hand turn. You should see a dilapidated sign for a hacienda at this left hand
 turn. Just after big white cross which is on the right. Continue to follow this
 road. You will come upon a shrine for the Mary -- most hired
 camionetas will drop you off here. You can count on about a 2-3 hour hike
 from the to the refugio (Nuevos Horizontes') at 4,700 meters. The
 refugio has room for about 15-20 people and has cooking facilities.

     Additional Routes: Northeast Ridge, Celso Zuquillo, South Ridge, Southwest
 face.