Cotopaxi
5879
Meters
Main
Climbing Route: Climbing Cotopaxi
is often like attending a crowded
party. You can expect lots of people
in the refugio and just as many people
climbing the standard route. The
route itself is often a trench so that following the
route can be a rather mindless experience.
Nevertheless, the beauty of this
mountain remains intact and like
any glaciated mountain this one must be treated
with caution and respect. Ropes,
axes, crampons, etc are necessary despite the
rather nonchalant descriptions in
many guidebooks. From the main parking lot
ascend the clearly marked trail
to the refugio, a hike of about 30 minutes
depending on your condition. From
the refugio, follow the well-marked scree
slope to the right of the refugio
and up towards the glacier. From the refugio to
the glacier is approximately an
hour's hike. Once on the glacier head south and
up towards the big black rock known
as Yanasacha seen in the photo above.
Traverse right of Yanasacha and
angle up to the right. On your left will find a
steep snow ramp (40 - 50 degrees)
heading up to a snow ledge (filled
bergschrund). At the ledge traverse
left 100 feet to its end and find a metal
ladder heading up to a steep snow
pitch. This is exposed so be careful. From
here continue to summit.