- Main Summit Direct February 1999, main summit direct in great
shape, lots of crevasses, so be prepared.
Cayambe - Picos Jarrin: As of February 1999, Route in Great Condition.
route, aka comercial route, is in good shape. There are a
few gaping crevasses spanned by snow bridges, but well maintained and stable.
New Snow Beware.
El Altar -
Italian Route has changed due to lack of snow and ice, the route
now crosses a short section of rock between the upper and lower glacier. Poor
conditons due to small amount of ice/snow.
Normal route: very basic, follow cairns, a rope is essential for
the last 25 meters, aiding a rappel off the summit.
- Normal route: basic scree slog, with 40 minutes of gentle glacier
at top, basic gear is need for 100% safety, there are crevasses on the glacier.
Carihuairazo - No new snow -- conditions constantly changing.
- Whymper Route: Very Dangerous Rockfall; Normal Route:
Dangerous Rockfall; Direct Recent Success, this has become the comercial
"normal" route. Lots of Snow.
Route doesn't change - just the weather! Recently landowners have
been turning climbers away, access is through private property.
- Despite the rotten rock the route is in good shape with minimal
snow. Watch out for lightning.
Ilinizas.- North and South peaks