Cayambe
5790 meters
The Picos Jarrin route seen from the basin below the refugio
Picos
Jarrin Route: This is the main climbing route for Cayambe. In fact few
people ever explore other routes
on this mountain. From the refugio follow the
many trails up the rock band towards
the glacier. You will spend an hour on
scree and rocks before you actually
reach the glacier. There are numerous
paths and all eventually lead up
and to the ice. Note that once you reach the
top of the scree, cross an open
flat area (good for camping), descend 10
meters heading right away from a
lake then up and left towards the glacier.
Keep the arete on your left as you
ascend until you reach ice. Once on the
glacier head left across a gentle
slope towards a large rock band. Before
reaching the rockband begin heading
up towards the diamond shape rock
known as Picos Jarrin (seen above
in picture). Skirt Picos Jarrin to the right
and head for the saddle between
Santa Barbara peak and the main peak.
There are a few large crevasses
in this area. The climb steepens considerably
as you approach the headwall. Ascend
directly up the headwall (35 - 40
degrees). You will reach a large
Bergschrund which can be negotiated by
traversing north west and ascending
the Santa Barbara peak, then climbing up
to the main peak. Ascent takes 6
to 9 hours. Depart between 11:00 PM and
1:00 AM
Additional Routes: East Peak, Santa
Barbara
Suggested Reading: Climbing and Hiking
in Ecuador 4th edition
Getting There:
Reaching Cayambe is easy. Either take a bus from Quito
North to town of Cayambe 1 1/2 hours,
then transport can be hired to the
refugio. The road is poor near the
end so pick a four wheel drive vehicle. The
road to the refugio leaves the Pan
American highway at the park on the south
end of town. Make a soft right keeping
the park on the left. Just after the park
take a hard right. Follow this until
a Church plaza. The road turns left then right
around the plaza and continues up
on cobble stones eventually turning to dirt
and rocks. Just past Hacienda Pimonte
(lower) the road splits, take the high
road on the right, and continue
climbing. 1 hour from Cayambe 3 hours from
Quito.
