National Park Podocarpus

General Information

• Area: 361.452 acres (146.280 ha)
• Date of Creation: December 15, 1982
• Altitude: 2.952 - 11.811 ft (900 - 3.600 m)

The southernmost park of Ecuador, very close to the city of Loja, Podocarpus was named after a tree species that dominates the area. The park has abundant rivers and lakes, so it has become the most popular center for fishing as a sport in the country. Podocarpus attracts many birdwatchers, since it is home to 40% of the bird species in Ecuador. Only the area around Cajanuma, the visitor center, with 210 species, supports the highest number of bird species in this area of cloudforest in the world. In Podocarpus there is also a huge population of orchids, plants with many colored and appreciated flowers. However, the park is threatened by informal mining in the area.

Fauna

Podocarpus is one of the richest areas in the world in bird species, many of them endemic or threatened. Up to this date, 560 bird species have been registered, but probably there could be up to 800. The most common are toucans, parrots, parakeets and tanagers. There are also important populations of hummingbirds, woodpeckers and Andean cocks-of-the-rock. The main mammal species are tapirs, pumas, marsupial mice, dwarf deer, spider monkeys and spectacled bears.

Flora

The park has three to four thousand species of plants. The most important, of course, is the podocarpus tree, creating a forest which covers most of the area. In the park the cinchona tree is also found, from which quinine, the medicine used to treat malaria, is extracted. However, what attracts botanists to this park are plants of the epiphyte species, like bromeliads, ferns and most importantly, orchids. The orchids are the most numerous flowered plants in the world, and can be found in thousands of different colors and forms. Podocarpus offers many endemic orchid species, and more of them are discovered each year.

Life Zones

• Very humid Pre-Montane forest: this life zone is found between 3.000 and 6.500 ft., representing the lowest part of the park. The vegetation is almost Amazonian, and as such very exuberant and rich in fauna. The laurel tree is a common species found in the zone. In this area lies the Vilcabamba valley, famous for the long life spans of its dwellers and its pleasant climate. The temperature varies between 65 and 75° F.
• Very humid Lower-Montane forest: most of the area of the park has the characteristics of this life zone, between 6.500 and 9.800 ft above sea level. The height of the trees is lower as the altitude increases. Most of this zone is covered with the romerillo or podocarpus tree, which gave the name to the park. The cedar has been able to withstand the deforestation in the park caused by informal mining. However, overexploitation of the cinchona or cascarilla tree, from which quinine is obtained to treat malaria, has endangered it. The Cajanuma visitor center is in this life zone. The average temperature is between 54 and 65° F.
• Pluvial Montane forest: this life zone, with an altitude of 9.800 to 11.800 ft, is a transition from montane forest to paramo, because it marks the rise of the oriental branch of the Andes mountain range. Its dominant plant species are shrubs and pastures of the graminaceous and lycopod families. The temperatures normally range from 43 to 54° F.

Places of Interest

• Cajanuma: this visitor center is the place of arrival into the park, a short distance from the city of Loja and at 9000 ft of altitude. In the Administrative Center there is information about the park, and from there part many trails that penetrate deeper into the park. One of these roads leads to the Compadre Lakes, where sport fishing for trout is practiced. These lakes were formed by ancient glaciers. It is possible to swim in them and camp on their shores, but special facilities are not available. The tapir is common in the area. The climate is much more rainy the first half of the year than the second half.
• Bombuscaro and Romerillos: these two small visiting centers lie on the eastern side of the park, and are accessible from the city of Zamora rather than from Loja. Bombuscaro is named after a river that runs beside it, and there are two trails that tour the area. There is also a lounge available for environmental education activities. Romerillos is beyond Bombuscaro, deeper into the park, which allows for a better chance to observe uncommon species. However, the access is difficult, the trails are recommended for experienced hikers, and there are seasons of constant rain.
• Vilcabamba valley: south of the city of Loja lies the town and the valley of Vilcabamba. The western and lower side of the valley has been transformed by agriculture and man-made fires. However, the eastern side of the valley is inside the park's boundaries, and this protection has allowed the forest of podocarpus trees to survive. The valley has a very comfortable climate, with temperate weather all year, and the rivers of Chimba and Uchima from which the dwellers supply themselves are considered to have medicinal properties. This reasons are attributed to the excellent health and long life spans of the people of Vilcabamba, some of whom surpass a hundred years of age.

Tourism and Recommendations

• Arrival: Loja and Zamora-Chinchipe are the southernmost provinces of Ecuador, with their respective capitals Loja and Zamora. The Podocarpus National Park lies between the two, but it is easier to access from Loja because there are daily planes that arrive to the city of Loja from Quito and Guayaquil, the two main cities of Ecuador. From the city of Loja one should take the road south to Vilcabamba, and 7 miles south of Loja there is a guard station with a signpost. At that point one turns left and continues 5 miles on a dirt road to Cajanuma, the visitor center. However, if one wants to visit Bombuscaro and Romerillos, one needs to travel east from Loja to Zamora in bus or car, then take a road south, but a 4WD may be necessary in rainy season. September and December are the driest months. Binoculars and guidebooks may come in handy to identify birds and orchids.
• Sanctuary of the Swan : since 1560 the Swan Virgin has been venerated in this area. A town named Santuario (sanctuary in Spanish), was formed near the city of Loja in her honor. In 1935 a gothic church was built in the town, with a museum recording her miracles. In September of each year there are festivities in her honor, with typical dances, costumes, rooster fights and popular songs.