National Park Galápagos

General Information

• Area: 1’714.000 acres (693.700 ha)
• Date of Creation: March 14, 1936
• Altitude: 0 — 5.600 ft (0 — 1.707 m)

The Galapagos Islands are the most famous tourist attraction, botanical and animal reserve, and geological formation of Ecuador. Not only is it the first established national park of Ecuador, but the United Nations declared it a Natural Patrimony of Humanity in 1979 and a Reserve of the Biosphere in 1985, and the area of ocean around it is a Marine Reserve since 1986. It is agreed that the islands never had a connection with the mainland. Most scientists today accept the theory of long distance dispersal as being responsible for bringing life to the Galapagos Islands. They include: 1) wind and air currents; 2) oceanic drift, either by swimming, floating or carried on natural rafts of vegetation; and 3) dispersal by means of birds. How these animals adapted to the islands was the question Darwin tried to answer with his theory of evolution.

The Galapagos archipelago consists of thirteen major Islands, six minor islands and some 40 smaller rock formations and reefs spread out over 17,000 square miles of ocean. This cluster of islands located on the equator is situated 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador. From the time they first broke through the ocean floor, some 7-9 million years ago, the Galapagos have remained a very active site of volcanic activity.
The eastern islands (the oldest is Española) seem to be significantly older than those on the west, with the rocks on Isabela and Fernandina Islands being less than one million years old which is consistent with the "hot spot" theory of Galapagos Island formation. Today, the Galapagos are among the most active volcanic sites in the world. There have been seven eruptions in the last 15 years, some quite recently.

Fauna

* Endemic species

• Reptile species: the twenty-two species of Galapagos reptiles belong to five families: tortoises, marine turtles, lizards/iguanas, geckos and snakes. Twenty are endemic to the archipelago and many are endemic to individual islands. The Islands are well known for their giant tortoises ever since their discovery and play an important role in the development of Charles Darwin's theory of evolution. The name "Galapagos" originates from the Spanish word "galapago" meaning "saddle."

• Seabird species: the Galapagos archipelago is surrounded by thousands of miles of open ocean, which provides seabirds with a prominent place in the fauna of the islands. There are 19 resident species (5 are endemic), most of which can be seen by visitors easily. There may be as many as 750,000 seabirds in Galapagos, including 30% of the world's blue footed boobies, the world's largest red footed booby colony and the largest concentration of masked boobies in the world (Harris, 1984).

• Shorebird species: the coastline of Galapagos, comprising of beaches, rocky shores, mangrove lagoons and tidal salines, provide habitats for the resident shorebirds species listed here. Migrant species, those that breed in North America during the summer months, are not listed here.

• Land bird species: few species of land birds inhabit the Galapagos, although 22 of the 29 resident species are endemic to the Islands. Their presence in Galapagos is difficult to explain. They may have arrived by strong winds, although luck must have played a big part. For the most part, land birds are not exciting by appearance, they are rather dull color. However, their "tameness" is unsurpassed which make them a pleasure to watch.

• Mammal species: oceanic islands are typically lacking in mammals and the Galapagos are no exception. Only six species of mammals are native to the Islands. The absence of large predators probably accounts for the fearlessness of the other native species towards humans. Most mammals arrived on either rafts, vegetation or by swimming.

• Fish and other marine species: almost 300 species of fish have been identified in Galapagos. This is by no means a comprehensive list. You will find the most commonly seen species and those of ecological importance in abundance. Most of Galapagos fish species (54%) have their closest affinity in the Panama province. Fishes from the Indo-west Pacific area amount to about 12%, 7% from Peru-Chile province, 5% from the East Pacific offshore Islands and 23% are endemic to Galapagos.

1. Intertidal marine life
   Echinoderms - sea urchins, sea star, sea cucumbers, sand dollars
   Crustaceans - barnacles, crabs (Sally lightfoot), lobsters, shrimp
   Molluscs - snails, chitons, shellfish, squid and octopus
   Cnidarians - sea anemones, jellyfish and corals
   Porferans — sponges, corals, yellow-black coral *
2. Cartilage fish
   Galapagos (Requiem) shark *

White-tipped reef shark

Scalloped hammerhead shark
Whale shark
Horn shark
Blacktip shark
Silvertip shark
Spotted eagle ray

Aquila ray

Diamond stingray

Sorten manta ray

Golden cowray

Jewel moray

Panama conger eel *

Galapagos garden eel

3. Damselfish:
   Giant, Bumpehead, White-taiied, Yellowtailed, Panamic Sargeant Major, Night Sargeant, Brown Chromis
4. Seabass:
   Bacalao, Golden, Camotillo, Panamic Graysloy, Flag Cabrilla, Barred Serrano, Creole Fish (Gringo)
5. Parrotfish:
   Bumphead, Blue chin, Bicolor, Azure
6. Wrasse:
   Rainbow, Harlequin, Cnameleon, Sunset, Spinser, Streamer Hogfish, Goldspot Sheepshead, Hawkfish, Blacktip Cardinal fish, Sabertooth Blenny, Bravo Clinid Red light Goby, Blue-banded Goby, Four eyed Bienny, Bullseye puffersish, Guineafowl Puffer, Black Triggerfish, Finescale Triggerfish, Yellow-tailed Goatfish, Trumpetfish, Reef Cornetfish, Spotted Porcupinefish, Scorpionfish, Red lipped Batfish, Galapagos Clingfish, Night Lizardfish, Rainbow Scorpionfish, Coral hawkfish, Thread Herring, Anchovy, Milkfish, Lizard fish, Flying fish, Pacific Seahorse
7. Other fish:

Flora

* Endemic species

The islands lie in the Pacific Dry Belt, so most of the archipelago's land area is covered by semi-desert or desert vegetation. Only the higher parts of the larger Islands receive enough rain to be considered tropical and lush. There are roughly 600 native taxa (species, subspecies and varieties) of vascular plants (42% are endemic) and some 190 species introduced by humans. Most plant species are easily identified and evolutionary relationships are better understood because the flora is species poor. Here we list the more common and better known plant species, grouped together according to ecological zones.

• Littoral zone:
  Mangrove (Red, Black, White, Button)
  Ipomoea Beach Morning Glory Crypocarpus
  Salt Bush
  Sesuvium
• Humid zone:

• Arid zone:
  Candelabra Cactus
  Lava Cactus
  Prickley Pear Cactus * (Opuntia species)
  Cutleaf Dasy Leocorpus
  Lantana Leather Leaf Maytenus
  Manzanillo (poison apple)
  Mollugo Cordia Lutea
  Palo Verde Porkinsonia
  Tiquilia
• Transition zone:
  Palo Santo (Burseracece)
  Pega-Pega Guyabilio *
  Matasarno
• Brown zone:
  Mostly mosses, liverworts and ferns
• Miconia zone:
  Miconia shrub
• Pampa zone:
  Ferns, grasses and sedges
  Tree fern - Cyathea

Life Zones

Unlike most equatorial regions, the Galapagos are not hot and humid. They lie instead in a dry zone of the Pacific, where temperatures are kept abnormally low by the cool upwelling in the sea. The cold Humboldt Current sweeps northward from the Antarctic and at the northern tip of Peru it is pushed toward Galapagos by southeast tradewinds. The mass of cold water cools the air and an inversion layer is formed which upsets the usual weather pattern associated with the tropics. This results in peak daytime temperatures during the warmer months, January to May, averaging 27°C (80°F) and in August the average upper limit falls to 22°C (70°F). Periods of rain are brief and water drains quickly through the porous volcanic soils. While the lowlands are experiencing drought, the highlands receive moisture in the form of mist precipitation locally known as "garua." Between these two extremes, the dry lowlands and lush highlands, there are six and in some places seven vegetation zones that can be recognized, which are grouped into four different life zones.

• Desert Tropical thicket (Littoral zone): an area between sea level and 35 feet of altitude, occupied by the ocean on high tides. The dominant species are the mangrove and occasional small-sized plants, covering only small areas of the beach. The temperature is on average 70° F, but on some months it somewhat rises or lowers, depending on the behavior of cold Humboldt Current and warm El Niño Current that year.
• Thorny Tropical thicket (Miconia and Arid zones): this life zone is located between 35 and 400 ft above sea level. It covers the area of all small islands and most of the bigger ones, the vegetation it supports becoming the characteristic type of Galapagos Islands. This vegetation, mostly different types of cactus, such as the endemic prickly pear cactus, has adapted to resist draughts and to dominate rocky areas. The usual temperature is 70° F.
• Thorny Pre-Montane thicket (Transition zone): this area within the range of 400 to 600 ft of altitude, serves as a transition between a very arid lowland and a slightly more humid highland. The trees have greater heights than lower life zones and there are some epiphytes, ferns and grasses already present. The temperature is between 60 and 70° F on average.
• Dry Tropical forest (Humid, Pampa and Brown zones): a life zone in all areas above 600 ft of altitude, more humid than the rest of the park. There is a dense forest of epiphytes, vines, ferns, fungi, mosses and lichens. The pampa vegetation zone is characterized by an abundance of ferns, graminaceous plants and orchids. The temperature ranges from 60 to 70° F normally.

Places of Interest

• Santa Cruz Island: the main town, Puerto Ayora, is home of the Charles Darwin Research Station and Galapagos National Park headquarters. From them one can learn firsthand of the conservation and research efforts in the islands. One can also see the tortoise hatchlings and breeding programs that are saving several subspecies of tortoises from extinction. The tour of the Van Straelen Exhibit Hall will be the only opportunity to see the giant tortoises for most. A stroll through the town of Puerto Ayora (population 8,000) is good to buy souvenirs. Tourism, boot repair, fishing and agriculture are the major trades. Passengers on longer cruises may have an opportunity to visit the highlands of Santa Cruz. The scenery continually changes as one ascends through different vegetation zones. One can visit a pair of large pit craters called "Los Gemelos" (Spanish for "twins") and the largest lava tunnels found in Galapagos.

• San Cristobal Island:

1. Puerto Baquerizo Moreno: the Capital of the Galapagos Islands (population 4,000) and the oldest settlement. In 1985, an airstrip was built for flights to the mainland serviced by SAN Airlines. A small naval museum, souvenir shops and houses make up this small bayside village. Many tours begin and end their journey here.
2. León Dormido or Kicker Rock: a vertical tuff cone, abruptly rising almost 500 feet from the ocean. Erosion has split the rock and given its characteristic shape. Blue-footed boobies, masked boobies, frigate birds and sea lions line the shore.
3. El Junco Lake: when weather permits, you may visit the highlands of San Cristobal. By bus you reach the only sizeable fresh water lake in Galapagos where we find stilts, white-cheeked pintall ducks and common gallinules. We pass through several vegetation zones and the farming community, EI Progreso.
4. Isla Lobos: less than an hour from San Cristobal, Lobos Islet is a seasonal nesting location for the blue-footed boobie, although it is named for the sea lions sometimes present there.
5. Playa Ochoa: a small island just an hour from San Cristobal. A subtle introduction to the Galapagos with a short trail leading to a sand beach good for swimming. Brown pelicans and other Galapagos sea birds fly up overhead.

• Española Island:

1. Punta Suarez: this rocky point of land sustains one of the most impressive and varied colonies of sea birds in the Galapagos. Along its southern shore, high cliffs rise up from the sea for a spectacular view of soaring birds and the famous blowhole. You'll meet a multitude of blue-footed boobies and masked boobies protecting eggs and young chicks. So awkward on land, the waved albatross perform a strange courtship ritual. Note: Wear good walking shoes
2. Gardner Bay: located on the northeastern portion of Espanola facing Gardner Islet, we find a good spot for swimming and snorkeling. On shore, we walk along the brilliant white sand beach. This site is favored by sea turtles for nesting, sea lions for snoozing and visitors for taking long peaceful walks. Notes: Bring bathing suit, towel, snorkeling equipment

• Floreana:

1. Punta Cormorant: one lands on a beach with olive-colored sand due to volcanic crystals of magnesium and iron. The trail leads to a brackish lagoon where there are flamingos (the pinkest in the world) surrounded by palo santo trees. Pass through a rich variety of plant life to reach a soft coral sand beach where sea turtles lay their eggs in the sand dunes. Spotted eagle rays swim along the shallow water, so watch where you step.
2. Devil’s Crown: a shallow sunken crater makes for one of the best snorkeling sites in Galapagos, This almost completely submerged volcano offers snorkelers the chance to play in the water with sea lions. One can see a wide variety of colorful fish in the clear blue water. One must be a good swimmer as currents can be very strong.
3. Post Office Bay: not the most scenic of the visitor sites, but probably one of the most famous sites in Galapagos. Here is where a post barrel was placed and put into use in the late 18th century by English whaling vessels. One is invited to leave a post card and to pick up any mail from your home area. Take a short visit to the remains of a Norwegian commercial fish drying and canning operation and a lava tube that extends to the sea.
4. Black Beach: an unofficial visitor site only visited under special arrangement. Visit the Wittmer pension and small settlement of Puerto Velasco lbarra. It's famous resident, Margaret Whitmer, arrived to Floreana in the 1930's and still lives here today with her daughter. Here you can have your post cards stamped with one of four seals, sample the homemade wine. Items for sale include Floreana t-shirts and signed copies of her book, Floreana.

• Santa Fe Island: walk through a forest of giant Opuntia Cactus to find the special land iguanas, different from the species found on South Plaza. There is normally time for a swim in crystal clear water with colorful fish, sea turtles, and schools of manta rays.

• Plaza Islands: one is greeted by numerous sea lions as one comes ashore, since this island is occupied by 1,000 bulls, cows juveniles and pups. A large population of land iguanas are found eating pads and flowers from the Opuntia cactus. Along the high southern edge, you'll see various sea birds and the bachelor sea lion colony. Snorkeling is possible although visibility is inconsistent.

• Santiago Island: Santiago is a dramatic island covered with recent lava flows, feral goats and wild pigs. At this landing, one can see the remains of a fish-drying enterprise. One can also walk along the coast toward the fur seal grottos, once thought to be on the verge of extinction. Here one can swim in deep pools of clear water. Marine iguanas graze on exposed green algae and intertidal marine life is abundant. Note: Bring swimsuit, towel and snorkeling equipment.

• Bartolome Island: one of the most photographed sites in Galapagos is Pinnicle rock, an eroded tuff cone. A 30-minute climb to a summit of a once active volcano offers a panoramic view of Sullivan Bay. The view is educational as well as an inspiring featuring lava formation - spotter cones and lava tubes. Afterward, there is time for snorkeling on the beach that lines the northern shore. Frequently, penguins are spotted in this area. Take a walk through mangroves to the southern beach. Here, you may see mating see turtles and white tipped sharks close to shore. Notes: Swimsuit, towel, snorkeling equipment

• Genovesa Island:

1. Darwin Bay: located at the northeast portion of the Galapagos, Tower is an outpost for many seabirds and is a favorite amongst birders. Darwin Bay is actually the crater of an extinct, partially eroded volcano, with the surrounding cliffs forming the inner portion of the rim. In a forest of salt bush, we find colonies of nesting great frigate birds and red-footed boobies. A coral beach offers a great snorkeling opportunity.
2. Prince Phillip’s Steps: this tour starts with a boat ride along the base of the cliffs. We see squadrons of frigate birds and red billed tropicbirds flying back and forth overhead. Red-footed boobies are perched on branches of palo santo trees. Take your time climbing the steep rock staircase. At the top, the trails leads to an open area of nesting masked boobies and great frigate birds. Storm petrels, found in the open lava fields at the end of the trail, are prey for the short-eared owls. Note: Wear good walking shoes

• Fernandina Island: along the shoreline hundreds of marine iguanas bask in the sun: the largest colony in Galapagos. A large colony of sea lions with resident bulls are present. Flightless cormorants build their nests on the point and often Galapagos hawks fly overhead. This is one of the most pristine islands with no introduced species to date. See the recent lava flows of an active nearby volcano.

• Isabela Island:

1. Tagus Cove: created by the lava of six volcanoes that flowed together, this 1800 square mile island is the largest in Galapagos. Graffiti dating back to the 1800's is written on the rocky cliff. The trail leads to a salt-water lagoon and a great view of the lava fields, volcanic formation and the ocean. A boat ride reveals marine life and Galapagos penguins. Five volcanoes are still active. Note: Wear good walking shoes
2. Alcedo Volcano: this is a long six-mile climb so one has to be physically fit. Usually done as on overnight trip where one must bring his or her own tent, camping equipment and food. Home to the largest population of giant tortoises (over 4000). Notes: Wear good walking shoes, carry fresh water

Tourism and Recommendations

• Arrival: one has to arrange a tour beforehand with a tourism company. Most tours start with one’s arrival on plane to the island of San Cristóbal, but Baltra also has an airport. From there one usually takes a cruiser that goes from island to island, with experienced guides to show one around, make sure the park’s rules and regulations are kept and teach the tourists to help in the conservation of the islands.
• Park's Rules and Regulations:

• Conservation efforts: the Galapagos National Park Service (Parque Nacional Galapagos) is the governmental agency responsible for the management and protection of the Park. Conservation projects include the protection of endangered populations of native animals, the eradication and control of introduced species (particularly goats, feral dogs, cats, pigs, and guava plants) and the management of recreation and tourism by establishing and maintaining nature trails. The Charles Darwin Research Station (Estacion Cientifica Charles Darwin) is an international, non-profit organization that acts in scientific advisory capacity for the Park Service and conducts conservation-oriented research with the help of scientists and students from Ecuador and around the world. It also helps to channel funds for conservation in the islands.

• Diving: a snorkeling or diving opportunity in Galapagos should not be missed. Here you'll find a bizarre mixture of cold and warm water species. The main concentration of fish species occurs between the surface and 60 feet. Snorkelers should be good swimmers and know basic snorkeling techniques. Divers must be experienced and frequent divers. Some sites may have strong currents. Water temperatures will be cooler July to November when a wet suit would be practical. Sharks are common in Galapagos; however, there is no record of a shark attack on a human being in Galapagos waters. Here are some or the more popular dive sites in Galapagos:

1. Cousins rock: to the North of Bartolome, Cousins is an interesting wall dive. Here one can see huge moray eels, an occasional school of sharks and invertebrates. Visibility is just fair most of the year.
2. Gordon rocks: the best dive site in the Central Islands. It is a tough dive with heavy currents, large swells and deep water. One can find Hammerhead sharks, Amberjacks and other large fish.
3. Guy Fawkes Rocks: this is an easy, low current dive. Small reef fish abound. The walls are covered with block coral and it's a well worth it site for the multi-colored sponges, corals and other invertebrates.
4. Roca Redonda: located north of Isabela, Roca Redonda is home to big sharks and big groupers. There are areas with spewing gas bubbles from the floor.
5. Wolf and Darwin: most experienced divers will agree, this is one of the best diving sites in the world. Sightings of the whale shark are common here. There are no land visitor sites here, just serious diving. At the "Northern Arch" at Darwin, the northernmost Island, hammerhead sharks are not uncommon nor are bottlenose dolphins. At Wolf, three anchorages are possible; the pinnacle, the reef and the south islet channel. The reef contains many warm water varieties of fish found nowhere else in the Islands and is the most consistent place to see hammerheads.

• Darwin in Galapagos: on September 15, 1835, the visitor that gave fame to the Galapagos, Charles Darwin, arrived aboard the HMS Beagle, commanded by Captain Robert FitzRoy. The Beagle spent just five weeks in the archipelago, during which time the 26-year old naturalist was able to visit four of the principal islands — San Cristóbal (Chatam), Floreana (Charles), Isabela (Albermarle) and Santiago (James). He spent 19 days on land, collecting and observing the flora and fauna of this "living laboratory of evolution," a term often used to describe the islands. What he meant by this was that the isolation, confined habitats, and the comparatively small number of species combine to give the observer a clear view of the adaptive processes — called "adaptive radiation."

• Important history: