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Proper Maintenance for Archers


     This section should be helpful if you have a bow and arrow. Maintenance is one of the best ways to keep up your skills, so follow these notes diligently. 

Bow-

     Since the bow is the most important part in archery, there are some very simple steps an archer should take in-order to keep it in working condition. One of these steps is to never lay the bow on the ground. This can cause dust and other materials to damage or ruin sensitive parts of the bow. When the bow becomes wet for any reason, dry it off as fast as you can even if the finishes are waterproof. If your bow has metal in it, then the metal will rust causing the bow to function poorly. Finally, to help preserve the finish on the bow it is advised to use any type of bow wax and rub it on the bow to preserve it’s finish.
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Bow String

    This vital part of the bow is perhaps one of the easier areas to damage. To avoid damage, the archer should use bow string wax to keep the string waterproof. This will help keep the string in maximum performance condition and prevent it from becoming tangled.
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Arrows

    Although numerous and somewhat inexpensive, an arrow which has even the slightest malfunction can cause unexpected and unwanted results. To prevent this always keep the arrow feathers’ dry. If fletching becomes wet then spread out the arrows till they all dry completely. This allows the feathers of the bow to expand back to the original shape.
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Target Mats

    To help preserve target mats, do not place mats on damp floors or leave them uncovered in the rain. If you do, then you run the chance of fungus growing on the mats, ruining them and causing the archer to buy new ones.
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Target Faces

    Target faces have to be in good condition or they can give improper results from at the end of a session. To help keep the faces in great condition, remove faces while moistening mats. If the face is tearing, then use some sort of masking tape to bind the tears. This makes the faces last much longer. Patches should also be used to cover the gold and red areas of the face. By doing this, the life of the face could double. Be careful to align the patches, so the lines on the face stay well defined and don’t get melded together.
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Replacing a Plastic Nock

    After a certain amount of time, the nock gets worn down and will need to be replaced, so check the nock regularly. If the nock does need to be changed, make sure to choose the same size and color as that of the other arrows. Next, place a small flame (a lighter perhaps) underneath the nock and let the glue soften enough so it can be removed by pliers.

Note: 
Make sure the arrow is pointed up so that the feathers are not singed.

     After the glue has softened and the old nock removed, take off the old glue by using fine sandpaper. Once the nock area is clear, place ONE drop of glue where the nock will be placed. Use a finger or toothpick to spread out the glue evenly. Then place the nock on carefully. Wipe off any glue that has run off. While the nock is hardening into place, compare the end of the nock and the rest of the arrow. Make sure it is aligned with the arrows and shaft. Then rotate slowly to make sure everything is straight. An off-center arrow will produce bad results when fired.
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Replacing A Feather or Vane


    

     This procedure is a very general method that should work on most any type of fletching jig. All of them (feathers) have the same basic design in that they have a slot where it can be placed into the arrow. But, be sure to check the instructions to be safe.

     Before starting, chose an arrow which is the same size, color, wing, and shape as the other arrows. Arrows that have right wing fletching have to be fletched with right wing feathers and vise versa. Fletching glue should be used only with fiberglass or aluminum arrows, and good quality wood glue should be used with wooden arrows.

     Scrape off the old ruined feather or vain with a dull knife. It works better and it won’t dig into the arrow’s shaft. Scoring aluminum shafts with cleanser is usually necessary, as well as rinsing thoroughly to assure good adhesion. Then place the arrow in jig so that the two other feathers are in line with the fletching position.

     Put the new feather in the clamp and set it in position on the jig and compare it with other feathers to be certain it will be the same distance from the nock. Removal of the jig is next and then run a thin line of glue along the spine. Place the clamp firmly in its proper place against the shaft. Allow the arrow to sit for 30 minutes while the glue dries. Open the clamp and carefully remove it from the arrow shaft and feathers.
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Replacing Arrow Points


    Hitting a hard object can blunt arrow points. Filing it can usually sharpen the point. Severely damaged points should be replaced. If shooting a clicker (Video) *requires RealPlayer*, keeping the points in good condition is doubly important. If the arrow itself has been damaged and cannot be repaired, the point itself may be removed and used again.

     While checking for repair points, you must check the condition of the shaft directly behind the point. If damage is evident at the end of the shaft, then the arrow cannot be repaired unless the shaft is shortened. It is a good way to salvage arrows for school and teaching purposes since the spine of the arrow will be increased.
This, however, affects the arrows flight characteristics.

Note: The crest of the arrow should be adjusted and the arrow removed from its original set due to the danger of being overdrawn and causing serious damage or an accident.

     There are various types, sizes, and weights for points. When replacing a point, the archer must make sure that it is identical to the discarded point before it was damaged. The proper way to remove a point is to heat the point (for wooden arrows) or the shaft just below the point (aluminum and fiberglass arrows) with the flame of a candle. Turn the arrow continually for even heating. Avoid placing the arrow itself in the flame of the candle. Grasp the point with pliers and remove the point. Use an Epoxy or ferrel cement if repairs are only of the point which can be inserted.

     If repairs require that the shaft be shortened, this must be done before the new point is put into place. Once the shaft has been shortened and prepared, then the point can be put on as described above.
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How to Cut a Shaft

Wooden Arrows:
Saw the shaft perpendicular to its length with a fine toothed saw. A regular tapering tool sold in archery shops should be used to shape the end of the shaft so it fits and adheres to the point. If tapering tool is not available, a knife is a reasonable substitute.

Fiberglass and aluminum arrows:
Reduce shaft with a carborundum cutting device. Burrs located on the inside of the shaft resulting from cutting can be removed by gently turning the shaft against a four to six bladed countersinking tool. Burrs found on the outside of the shaft should be removed with a cupped grinding wheel.
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Replacing an Arrow Rest on a Bow

    Like most things on a bow, the arrow rest must be replaced as they are worn down or broken. It is critical that the location of the armrest is perfect. The pressure point of the arrow must be placed directly above the pivot
point. The arrow rest should be placed so that the bottom of the arrow will be about five-eighth inch from the bottom of the sight device. Make sure that the part of the arrow rest that does come in contact with the arrow is perpendicular to the string. Any deviations from that will cause the arrow’s flight path to be unexpected.
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Mounting a Sight on a Bow

      

     The location of the sight on the handle rise is not as easy as most people believe it to be. It is crucial that the sight be mounted straight, because if it is not then the arrow will fly an unknown path.

     First, decided if the sight is to be placed on the front or back of the bow. Both have their good points. Front: Will allow the archer to move sight block lower, thus allowing the archer to fire five to seven meters farther than if the sight was placed in the back. Back: Good for short-range shooting. Since sight pin is farther from the eye thus magnifying bow movement.

Next, locate the mount of the sight in a position that allows the sight block to be placed on the bar for all distances. At the same time being careful that the sight pin is still located higher than the arrow when the block is as low on sight bar as possible.

If the sight is to be placed on the back of the bow:

    Drill the hole and attach the lower mount of the sight. Then string the bow. Grip the bow so the string touches a table or like surface with the handle in the air. Position a ruler alongside the sight bar and tilt the bow until the string off the bow can be seen along the straight edge of a ruler. Without moving either the bow or eye, move the sight bar until the bow and string appears to be besides the edge of the ruler. Mark that location of the top mount, then drill and fasten the sight into place.

If the sight is to be placed on the front of the bow:

    Line the string up with the edge of the sight bar visually and mount in the same manner as above.

     If the sight is the kind that is to be directly mounted on the side of the bow, it can mounted directly. Still follow the guidelines for the initial location of the sight bar. Once mounted, it should be checked to be sure that it is straight with the string.
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