THE EARLY PERIOD

Although ruined Memphis, 14 miles southwest of Cairo, was a metropolis 5,000 years ago, and about 2,000 years ago the Romans occupied a town on the site of Cairo called Babylon (now the Misr al-Qadimah quarter), the seed from which contemporary Cairo sprang was the town of al-Fustat, founded as a military encampment in AD 641 by 'Amr ibn al-'As, commander of the Arabs who brought Islam to Egypt. Successor dynasties added royal suburbs (al-'Askar, founded in 750 by the Umayyads; al-Qata`i', founded in 870 by Ahmad ibn Tulun) to the increasingly prosperous commercial and industrial port city of al-Fustat. Little remains of these early developments in the southern part of the city, except the tower of Trajan (AD 130), the mosques of 'Amr ibn al-'As (641) and Ahmad ibn Tulun (878), and the partially excavated mounds covering the site of al-Fustat.
In 969 adherents of a dissident Islamic sect, the Fatimids, invaded Egypt from what is now Tunisia. The conquering general, Jawhar, established a new rectangular walled city northeast of existing settlements. Initially named al-Mansuriyah, the city was renamed al-Qahirah in 973-974 when the Fatimid caliph al-Mu'izz arrived to make it the capital of a dynasty that lasted for 200 years. Al-Qahirah and al-Fustat coexisted until 1168, when unfortified al-Fustat was set on fire to protect Cairo from the crusaders. The crusaders were driven off by a Sunni (orthodox Islamic) army from Syria, after which the victorious commander, Saladin, founded the Ayyubid dynasty, which controlled a vast empire from Cairo.
Even though al-Fustat was partially rebuilt, Cairo itself became transformed from a royal enclave into an imperial metropolis. Saladin further extended the 11th-century walls built by a high official called Badr al-Jamali (the northern and southern walls and three main gates, al-Futuh Gate, an-Nasr Gate, and Zuwaylah Gate, are still extant) and constructed a citadel on the Muqattam spur (now dominated by the Muhammad 'Ali Mosque). After 1260, when Baybars I became the first Mamluk sultan of undisputed legitimacy, Cairo served as the capital of the Mamluk empire, which governed Egypt and the Fertile Crescent until 1516.
Medieval Cairo reached its apogee during the Mamluk era. By about 1340, almost 500,000 persons lived in an area five times greater than the original Fatimid walled city, and Cairo had become the greatest city of Africa, Europe, and Asia Minor. Its al-Azhar University was the principal seat of Islamic learning. The city was a key link in the profitable East-West spice trade and the recipient of tribute from a wealthy empire. Most of Cairo's greatest architectural masterpieces were built during this epoch.
Decline set in thereafter--sporadically at first, and then precipitously. The population was decimated by plagues, including the Black Death in 1348. The spice trade monopoly was broken by Vasco da Gama's voyage from Portugal to India (1497-99). Finally, political autonomy was lost to the conquering Turks, who, after 1517, reduced Cairo to a provincial capital. In 1798, when Napoleon and his troops arrived in Cairo, fewer than 300,000 people were living in the city and its two port suburbs, Misr al-Qadimah and Bulaq. The Turks returned after Napoleon's defeat in 1801. In 1805 Muhammad 'Ali, commander of an Albanian contingent, was appointed pasha, thus founding the dynasty that ruled Egypt until his great-great-grandson, Farouk I, abdicated in 1952 .

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