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How does tsunami travel and what happens when it approaches shore ?
Tsunami is a series of waves of extremely long wavelength and period
generated in a body of water by an impulsive disturbance that displaces the water. The
energy of an event mentioned above travels outward in all directions from the source (look
at the picure on the left). Tsunami in deep water can have a wavelength greater than 500
kilometers and period (time between two successive waves) of about an hour. Because of
their long wavelengths, tsunamis behave as shallow-water waves. The wave can be called
shallow-water when the ratio between the water depth and wavelength is very small.
Shallow-water waves move at a speed that is equal to the square root of the product of the
acceleration of gravity (9.8 m/s*s) and the water depth. The deeper the water is, the
faster tsunami travels. In the Pacific Ocean, where the typical water depth is about 4000
m, a tsunami travels at about 200 m/s, or over 700 km/hr. Because a wave loses energy at a
rate inversely related to its wavelength, tsunamis can travel at high speeds for a long
period of time and lose very little energy in the process. The height of the wave in deep
ocean is vey small - about twelve to twenty-three inches. The high speed and low height
makes tsunami very hard to recognize. As tsunami approaches shore, the water depth
decreases and the wave slows. The tsunami's energy flux, which is dependent on both its
wave speed and wave height, remains nearly constant. Consequently, as the tsunami travels
into shallower water, its speed diminishes and its height grows. It can finally reach the
height of 10 to 30 meters. When it finally reaches the coast, a tsunami may appear as a
rapidly rising or falling tide, a series of breaking waves, or even a bore. Tsunamis begin
to lose energy as they rush onshore - part of the wave energy is reflected offshore, while
the shoreward-propagating wave energy is dissipated through bottom friction and
turbulence. Despite these losses, tsunamis still reach the coast with tremendous amounts
of energy. Tsunamis have great erosional potential, stripping beaches of sand that may
have taken years to accumulate and undermining trees and other coastal vegetation. Capable
of inundating, or flooding, hundreds of meters inland past the typical high-water level,
the fast-moving water associated with the inundating tsunami can crush homes and other
coastal structures.