Photographing the night sky (1)

Photographs of objects in the night sky are more difficult to take than those taken in daylight. However, except for the addition of a sturdy tripod, all that you need to get started is a camera, a lens and either colour or black and white film.

Generally, light levels at night are extremely low, and a tripod is essential to hold the camera completely still during the long exposure times that are often required. A shutter release cable to trigger the shutter is an inexpensive extra item and makes any camera movement much less likely.

The best all-round camera for amateur astronomical photography is the single lens reflex (SLR). With this camera, it is possible to change from a normal lens for general pictures of starry skies to a telephoto lens for reasonably detailed studies of the lunar landscape.

Many SLRs feature automatic light measurement and exposure, but this facility is not designed to cope with night-time levels of illumination. Use either a manual model, or one that can be switched to manual operation, and select the T-setting on the shutter control ring. Once the shutter is triggered, it will remain open until the shutter release is pressed again.

There are two techniques for taking pictures of the night sky. The first involves using a stationary camera, the second using a driven camera.

When using the stationary technique, place the camera on the tripod and set the camera to focus on infinity. Next, select an area of sky and then make the exposure. Due to the rotation of the Earth, however, an exposure longer than about 30 seconds will record stars as streaks rather than pinpoints of light. If you include an area of sky containing the celestial poles and expose for about five minutes the resulting photograph will show circular star trails.

A telescope adapter ring, above, allows any single lens reflex camera to form part of a sophisticated recording system of celestial objects. Use the chart, below, as a guide to exposure times.

click to enlargeThe Full Moon, above, photographed over the Parthenon, Athens, using a 400 mm lens and a 2-sec exposure. The Full Moon is not the best time for detailed lunar observations because the level of illumination is too high. Some detail has also been lost due to halation - light reflecting back from the base of the film.
 

Comet Burnham 1960 11, above, photographed on 27 April 1959. An exposure of 20 sec was used and a 15 cm (6-in) telescope.

Exposure recommendations

This table is an approximate guide only. Ambient light levels, brightness of the sky background, general atmospheric conditions, as well as differences in film processing, all contribute to make exposure times extremely variable. Whenever possible, it is advisable to bracket exposures. This involves making a series of exposures on either side of the one determined to be correct.
 
Object
Mount
Film speed
Aperture
Exposure time
Star trails/comets Tripod IS0 64 f 2 - f 4 Up to 30 min
Meteors Tripod IS0 64 - 200 f 5.6 10 - 30 min
Full Moon Optional IS0 64 f 8 1/250 - 1/500 sec
Quarter Moon Optional IS0 64 f 5.6 1/125 - 1/250 sec
Lunar eclipse:
Half shadow Tripod IS0 200 f 4 1 sec
Near totality Tripod IS0 200 f 2.8 2 sec 
Artificial satellites Tripod IS0 200 f 4 10- 30 min
Stars/ comets  Driven IS0 200 f 5.6 1 min -1 hr 
Star clusters/ nebulae/ galaxies Driven IS0 200 - 400 f 5.6-f 8 10 min -1 hr 
 
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