A soft breeze causes a ripple on the sea with round tops and angled valleys. The shape is caused by surface tension of the water. When the wavelength is more than 1,74 centimeters the shape will be caused by gravity and the wave gets pointed tops and round valleys. Wind speed increases and from one side the water is pushed and on the other side the water is sucked up. The tops become more steep and higher. When the angle of the top is 120 degrees the wave falls down and shatters.

The force of a wave

Every disruption of the water surface causes waves with irregular shapes. To calculate the force (energy) of a wave you have to reduce the wave to the shape of a sinus-wave. To calculate the speed of the wave you need the wavelength this is measured from top to top (in meters) and you need the time between passing of two tops (in seconds). The result of the calculation will be the speed of the wave in meters per second.