In the 1960's the two strands of haute couture fashion houses and teenage fashions that had failed to connect in the 50's grew even more dissident. Youth culture and youth fashions blossomed as never before. In fact some called it a "youth quake." Many youth cults sprang up around the world. One of the most important ones was the mods. They erupted in Britain and personified what the early years of the "Swinging Sixties" were about; youth, fashion, mobility and music. They rode on scooters and spent much money on clothes. Though, following rivalry with other groups of rockers the group acquired a bad name by 1964. Another important group was the hippies. This movement grew up against the backdrop of compulsory military service in the United States. They set out to reject western materialism and its obsession for money. They grew their hair long and wore ethnic clothing. Fashion novelties of the 60's included the mini skirt, launched by the British designer Mary Quant, and the rediscovery of ethnic clothing, influenced by the feeling that the world was suddenly very small. The declining infant mortality rate resulted in fewer women than men, who began to feel the need to compete with one another for the opposite sex. On the other hand women could dress more casually in practical pantsuits and especially jeans. With longhaired hippies and pant-wearing women "you can't tell the boys from the girls anymore" was a common complaint. In fact society was starting its movement towards equality for the sexes.