1. The first process is Ngetel. It means that we remove the waste and starch from
the factory found on a new mori cloth. This starch will make the
cloth rigid and smooth when ironed.
2.The second process is Nganji. In this phase, after being washed, the cloth is
given thin starch using wheat flour until it is dry. This is meant
to smoothen and hold the thread not to swing. Beside that, it also
makes us easy in the removal process of lilin klowong and tembokan.
3.The next process is called Ngemplong. This process is meant to smoothen the
cloth that will be painted by wax (diklowong). Some layers of
given-kanji cloth are rolled tightly then they are struck until they
get smooth with a wood, soft-fiber cudgel. So does with the mat
which should also be made of soft-fiber wood. This third process can
not be replaced by ironing it, because in the ironing process, we
can not stick the threads straightly.
4.The fourth process is Nglowong. In this phase, the cloth is drawn using wax,
either using hand canting or manual seal (which has already been a
bit modern). The wax used in this process must be strong enough so
that the wax is easy to take out by dredging since the ex-drawing of
this wax will be colored brown.
5.The fifth process is Nembok. This process is almost similar to the fourth
process, Nglowong. The difference is that the used wax should be
stronger because this wax is employed to resist the blue color
(indigo) and brown (soga) to not absorb the cloth.
6.The sixth process is Wedelan/Celepan, which means giving blue color to the
cloth which has the Nembok process by using indigo adjusted to the
desired level of color.
7.The seventh process is Ngerok, which means removing lilin klowongan for the
container of brown color by cawuk (made of pieces of zinc sharpened
at its end).
8.The eighth process is Mbironi. In this step, the cloth in which it has been
dredged on the desired part is still blue and white (dots) and it
needs to be covered by the wax using canting tulis. The purpose of
doing this is that the parts do not get mixed with another color
when it is colored brown.
9.The ninth process is Nyoga. After the cloth had Mbironi process, it is colored
brown by color extract made of bark of soga, tingi, tegeran and so
on. That cloth is dyed in colored container until it gets wet
entirely. Next the cloth is dried. This process is repeatedly done
until brown color appears as desired.
10. The last process is Ngareni and Mbabar/Nglorot. In Ngareni process, the
brown-colored cloth is then rinsed by lime water solution. The cloth
is dyed in the lime container until it is fully wet. After it is
seeped, the cloth is dyed again in the extract water of tegaran
wood, kembangsari, etc. In this process, to clean all the waxes
attached to the cloth, we can put the cloth into boiled water on the
stove, and liquid wheat flour so that the wax does not re-attach the