10 PROCESSES OF BATIK MAKING

1.  The first process is Ngetel. It means that we remove the waste and starch from the factory found on a new mori cloth. This starch will make the cloth rigid and smooth when ironed.

2.      The second process is Nganji. In this phase, after being washed, the cloth is given thin starch using wheat flour until it is dry. This is meant to smoothen and hold the thread not to swing. Beside that, it also makes us easy in the removal process of lilin klowong and tembokan.

3.      The next process is called Ngemplong. This process is meant to smoothen the cloth that will be painted by wax (diklowong). Some layers of given-kanji cloth are rolled tightly then they are struck until they get smooth with a wood, soft-fiber cudgel. So does with the mat which should also be made of soft-fiber wood. This third process can not be replaced by ironing it, because in the ironing process, we can not stick the threads straightly.

4.      The fourth process is Nglowong. In this phase, the cloth is drawn using wax, either using hand canting or manual seal (which has already been a bit modern). The wax used in this process must be strong enough so that the wax is easy to take out by dredging since the ex-drawing of this wax will be colored brown.

5.      The fifth process is Nembok. This process is almost similar to the fourth process, Nglowong. The difference is that the used wax should be stronger because this wax is employed to resist the blue color (indigo) and brown (soga) to not absorb the cloth.

6.      The sixth process is Wedelan/Celepan, which means giving blue color to the cloth which has the Nembok process by using indigo adjusted to the desired level of color.  

7.      The seventh process is Ngerok, which means removing lilin klowongan for the container of brown color by cawuk (made of pieces of zinc sharpened at its end).

8.      The eighth process is Mbironi. In this step, the cloth in which it has been dredged on the desired part is still blue and white (dots) and it needs to be covered by the wax using canting tulis. The purpose of doing this is that the parts do not get mixed with another color when it is colored brown.

9.      The ninth process is Nyoga. After the cloth had Mbironi process, it is colored brown by color extract made of bark of soga, tingi, tegeran and so on. That cloth is dyed in colored container until it gets wet entirely. Next the cloth is dried. This process is repeatedly done until brown color appears as desired.

10.  The last process is Ngareni and Mbabar/Nglorot. In Ngareni process, the brown-colored cloth is then rinsed by lime water solution. The cloth is dyed in the lime container until it is fully wet. After it is seeped, the cloth is dyed again in the extract water of tegaran wood, kembangsari, etc. In this process, to clean all the waxes attached to the cloth, we can put the cloth into boiled water on the stove, and liquid wheat flour so that the wax does not re-attach the cloth.

Sources :
http://www.tembi.org/ensiklopedi/20081202/index.htm