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| Finishing Techniques |
| Linings ¢x Topstitching ¢x Button and Buttonholes |
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Topstitching |
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| Topstitching is a decorative detail that also holds the collar and facing flat. This stitching should be done before buttons are attached. Topstitching placed 1/4¡¨ (6 mm) from the finished outer edge is standard on blazers and sport coats, but several rows may be used. On thick coating fabrics, stitching farther from the finished edge is also appropriate. |
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| Edgestitching placed close to the outer edges of the garment is especially attractive on hand-surfaced fabrics. If topstitching or edgestitching is used on the outer edges, it is often repeated on pockets or other areas. |
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| Use a heavier thread, such as buttonhole twist, to make stitching more apparent. Try lengthening the stitch for greater stitch definition. To prevent fraying and skipped stitches, be sure to use a special topstitching needle or a size 16 (100) regular machines needle when sewing with heavier thread. When buttonhole twist is not available in the appropriate color, thread one machine needle with the spools of all-purpose thread. Test the stitch length, the thread, and the distance from the edge, using a sample from the same fabric and interfacing layers as those in the garment. |
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| Press the garment, using a clapper on the edges to be topstitched to flatten them as much as possible before topstitching. To keep the stitching straight and even, use the needle plate guide or the edge of the presser foot, or mark stitching lines with transparent tape. When topstitching, stitch slowly; even the tiniest stitch variation will show. |
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