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The New Hellenic State (1833 - our days)

In 1456 Constantinople  was taken by the Turks. That was the end of Byzantine Empire. The next 400 years Greek people had to live with Turks. On 22 February 1821, Alexander Ypsilantis along with a small escort of five persons crossed the river Pruth, the boundary with Russia and the Danubian principalities, went to Greece. That was the beginning of the revolution. Few years later the New Hellenic State was established. 

Greek costumes changed, and there are some generalizations that can be made about the costumes and their styles and components. For example, the costumes of the mainland and of the islands are different.

All Greek costumes have similar materials, construction, parts, and designs, but the costumes in the local regions have some individual characteristics which are often very different from those of the costumes of other regions.

Every day's life sciences at the beginning of 20th century


By GiannisTsarouchis


By Theofilos Chatzimichalis

Men's Costumes
There are two main types of costumes for men. Foustanella and Vraka.

In the central and southern regions of Greece wear the "fustanella". After the liberation of Greece
in the first quarter of the 19th century, all male costumes in  Peloponnesus took the form of the
fustanella.

Fustanella was worn by the Greek fighters of the 1821 revolution and today it serves as the official
uniform of the Evzones, Greece’s Presidential Guard.

The fustanella skirt consists of 400 pleats symbolizing the years during which Greece was under
Ottoman rule.

Text Box: Theofilos
The remainder of the costume is composed of a white shirt with very wide flowing sleeves, an
embroidered woolen vest, a sash worn around the waist, and shoes (tsarouhia) with large pompons.

The embroidery is made of spun wool and the belt is of a fine leather work. The Fustanella has
changed in the meaning of detailed work, the length of the fousta, and, sometimes, the number
of jackets worn. The sleeves have become decorative, resembling wings without the function of
sleeves. After all the changes, it has become the standard Pan-Hellenic male costume used to the
modern times.

Extremely popular, this costume is now one of the world's most well-known traditional garments.

 Vraka   The word ''vraka'' means generally the male Crete costume although this kind of trousers
worn by the islands inhabitants of Greece  instead of a fustanella. The men’s costume is made of heavy
wool felt to protect against the cold and is embroidered with black cord. 
In some island
“vraka” was worn by women too and was long, to the ankles, because during the Turkish
occupation  women wanted to hide their legs from the eyes of the Turks.                 
                         Text Box: Theofilos

The male Epirotan costume has also characteristic  pair of pants, called “bourazana” or “ panovraki”, which resembles the
 Macedonian “salvaria” or “vrakia”. The pants are either white or black. 
 

Women's Costumes
One general rule  about the Women's costumes concerns the main parts of
their traditional dress.
Most of the mainland costumes in particular have a cotton chemise
(poukamiso) as the basic garment. On the body, over the chemise, there is a
sleeveless vest which is usually made of wool. These may be short or long.

Text Box: Giannis Tsarouchis
Sometimes dresses are of homespun wool, but in some areas they are made
from finer factory woven wools. Colours are sometimes black, sometimes white.
Sometimes in urban areas, they are made from velvet.
Other important elements of the women's costumes are various types of aprons,
sashes, and head coverings. The head coverings are usually large scarves of various materials
and colours.
Women's dresses were handmade embellished with detailed needlework
and  decorated in a rich
and colourful fashion.
Although there are some generalizations that can be made about the women's dresses  and their
styles and components, costumes of each area tend to be different. Look at these examples below.
All photographs below are from an excellent calendar of Lyceum Club of Greek Women. Artist's
name is Emile Lester and technique used is tinting. (Read more about costumes, E.Lester and
Lyceum Club in our Photo Gallery)

Macedonia-Imathia Cyclades-Kea Peloponnese - Mani Dodecanissa-Astypalea Epirus - Paramythia East Aegean - Psara Asia Minor-Pontos  

After the industrial revolution of the 19th century, both men's and women's dress becomes more complex due to the invention of the
 Sewing Machine, and the popular dissemination of pattern books and systems for garment cutting.   Industrialists invested in the
 machines and had the opportunity to produce ten times cheapest clothes as before and with greater quality.
Another result of this clothing revolution was that poor people's clothing got better and the middle classes were able to afford more
 than clean simple clothes, and began to actively indulge in fashion.

Women's clothing  became also lighter and lighter in construction and materials. Men's Dress in the same period  took a turn
 towards greater formality and dandyism in Europe, and soon this style came to Greece.

During World Wars periods women had to recycle clothes and textiles. Wedding dresses would be worn several times, borrowed by sisters and friends. Skirts were made from men's old plus fours or  trousers. Parents clothes would be made into children's clothes. Blankets were used to make coats and old coats cut into smaller  garments. Pillowcases were trimmed with lace and made into blouses. Nothing was wasted.

After the war manufacturers read the public's need for newness and innovative change and started  manufacture replicas of the
 American look which was simple and classic  and continues to have followers today.

        Giannis Tsarouchis                  Giannis Tsarouchis                               Nikolaos Lytras                          Constantine Parthenis

Read more about Giannis Tsarouchis, Theophilos Hatzimichael, Emile Lester, Greek Painting  during 20th century, National Costumes all over Greece and Lyceum Club of Greek Women.
 
Recourses: Greek Painting  http://www.culture.gr/2/21/214/21406m/e214061m.html 

Yiannis Tsarouchis - Painter of the Greek Folk Costume http://www.culture.gr/4/42/421/42101/421020/e42120n.html 
Lyceum Club of Greek women  http://www.culture.gr/4/42/421/42101/421020/e4210201.html
Greek Regional Costumes http://www.culture.gr/4/42/421/42101/421020/e4210202.html

intered Kallitheas, On Track Team's case study. Fivos K. and Theano S. were  responsible for this part of our work.
Recommended Resolution  1024 x 728   -  Last update 15/04/2005